I have a friend who offered to take photos of a few finished packs. He used to work in the fashion industry and worked on product photoshoots for a number of high end handbag companies. I was shocked by the amount of set up time that is spent for each shot.

Finally finished my daypack project!
Made from Ultra 80x (body) and Robic 210d Diamond Ripstop (pockets, reinforcements, shoulder strabs).
A plastic sheet can be inserted into the back panel for stabilization, also has a bottom pocket out of Ultra stretch. Also a hip belt can be inserted but I think for this size of pack it is not needed.

I am pretty happy with the dimensions and the sizing. I still can fit all my gear for overnights in it including food.

This is my first smaller pack but really love the ultralight feeling when going out with it.
Comes in at 470g or 450g if totally stripped down (without the toothbrush, bungee cord and buckled up at the top instead of down to the sides).

Any name suggestions?

In addition to my framebag and handlebar bag I made some bolt on holsters inspired by the Rockgeist microwave panniers for 12 liter drybags. Using x-pac vx21, ecopak epx200, polyethyleen sheet as a backplate and fidlock snaps for easy access. Only 210 gram each and proven to be rock solid last weekend.

This is the myogtutorials.com (Prickly Gorse) saddelbag. It's the first time I've printed a pattern and followed a set of instructions. It has been fun to make something designed by a professional, and it really puts my own work into perspective, very inspiring.

I printed the pattern on a4 sheets and taped them together before cutting them out. The instructions have been easy to follow, and I think the project itself is actually pretty manageable even for someone without loads of experience. The hardest part is definitely the bulk of the layers at some of the seams, but I'm fortunate to have an industrial walking foot machine and it handled it all very well.

The bag itself is very nice. It's well proportioned, solid, and seems practical and useful. Because of its height, it's not a good fit for my Carradice Bagman Sport bag support, but I think the Expedition version would work. Otherwise it can also be mounted on the handlebars.

I added the d-rings on the lid, and left out the d-rings at the side for the carrying strap, but that's the only changes to the pattern I've made.

The materials I've used are

- olive 500d Cordura

- 5 color flecktarn 500d Cordura

- brick red EPX200

- black 210d gridstop

- silver bullet RBC200

- 1 mm hdpe sheet

- 25 mm polyamid webbing, buckles and d-rings

It's the most advanced project I've ever sewn, and I'm quite happy with the result.

New frame bag for my new bike

Just finished my first MYOG backpack. Based on the Prickly Gorse 25L pattern that I adapted to my needs.

Pack will be used for skitour, climbing and paragliding.

The pattern is super easy to follow with many options to choose from. I went the no-nosense route by deleting most of the pockets.

I tried a more "trail running" style sternum clip with sewn in cord and specific clips. The pack is well held in place with this solution.

My only complaint is that the shoulder straps are too tiny for me (1m82, 68kg). They don't wrap around low enough and the bottle are located too high up. Something to fix on my next try :) !

The finished pack weights in at just 270gr.

Fabric is UltraWeave 200x from MYOG UK.

In the process of making new panniers for my bike and here's the first one. Shock chord on the back to store a water bottle or something and webbing on the front so I could attach another pouch if I want to. I used waxed canvas and it's attached with 2 Voile straps on top and one on the back to keep it from flopping

Hi there!
This is potentially just the subreddit for me. I make lots of my own gear and it currently in a 'oldschool cool' phase. Making my own gear from canvas, webbing, leather, fur, oilskin and such.

I was encouraged to share my anorak in here. So here goes.

I've wanted a wool anorak for many years—ever since I saw some random ad from a Chinese online store featuring an anorak made of “wool.” I later found out it was a knock-off of the Boreal Mountain Anorak.
Around the same time, I stumbled across eight wool blankets from the Civil Defense at a thrift store—just 50 crowns (8USD) each. I bought them all.

I don't now the wool % in the blankets, as they're all different mixes of scrap. So they swing between 30 - 70 % in wool. (I figures that out after freezing outside, thinking they all had a lot of wool). One could weight the blankets, and pick the heaviest one.

I'd been thinking about how to design the anorak for some years —without any prior experience making sewing patterns or anything like that.
This is how the experiment went: sacrifice one blanket and try to sew an anorak.
I used a cheap sewing machine from Aldi, some fairly heavy-duty needles, and strong thread. I also used a bit of paracord, some scrap leather, and edge binding.

I've been using this for 1.5 years now, it holds really well. And I've just recently made some small improvements and extra stiching.

Next up is giving it some homemade weather proofing with a wax, parafin, lanolin, linseed oil mix.

Step 1 – The Anorak

Fold the blanket in half. I made the back of the anorak a bit longer than the front. Lay down on top of the fabric and check that the sleeves will be long enough.
The body of the anorak is made from one single piece—sleeves, torso, and shoulders are all cut as one.

The pieces are sewn together down to about waist level, where your legs bend, for maximum freedom of movement.
The large leftover cutoffs are saved for detailing later.

Step 2 – The Hood

I found a large hoodie at a thrift store and cut off the hood. I took it apart at the seams and used it as a pattern.
It was easy to sew a hood from the blanket and attach it to the anorak. I also cut a slit down the front of the chest. A triangular scrap piece is sewn underneath to keep it closed properly.
With eyelets and a drawstring, you can tighten the hood opening when it’s really cold.

Step 3 – The Chest Pocket

The chest pocket is made from one of the large leftover pieces from step 1. I made sure to give it a proper bottom so that items don’t fall out—it has a bit of a “wall” on the side.

I added the pocket after sewing the anorak together in step 1—next time I’ll do it beforehand to make things easier.

While working, I got the idea to sew rabbit fur on the inside of the pocket and quickly stitched it to create two smaller compartments.
The rabbit fur is super nice on cold fingers. These two small pockets now hold my phone and a knife or multitool. I also stitched in a leather loop with a D-ring, which holds my keys in place with a carabiner.

Step 4 – Waist Drawstring

Another idea that came during the build: I sewed a strip of edge binding all the way around the waist and ran a length of paracord through it.
Most of the time, I don’t cinch it tight, but when it’s really cold, it’s nice to be able to seal out the wind.

I also added eyelets to the sides so that the anorak can be laced shut along the sides with a bit of cord—helpful in winter to close it an extra 15 cm on each side.

Step 5 – Cuffs

The sleeves felt a little too open. So I used some small leftover pieces, cut them into trapezoid shapes, and sewed them in as adjustable cuffs.
They tighten with a drawstring, which adds a bit of length and helps seal around the wrists—while keeping the sleeves comfortably wide.

Step 6 – Small Pockets

The anorak was basically done, but I still had some fabric scraps left. So I made a couple of small front pockets.
They sit just below the belt line. My work belt fits above the small pockets but below the chest pocket.

These little pockets turned out perfect for holding gloves and wrist warmers.
There’s also a ring sewn into the side of the anorak—great for clipping on my heavy leather gloves. Thin liner gloves fit perfectly in the small pockets.

Later improvements done
After a year or so I stitch all the edges, some had begone to fray a bit. Next anorak - do it right from the start.

I also added a large butt pouch, it's great with the extra layer sitting on moist ground, and it holds my shemagh.

If this (when this) dies some day. I'll spend the cash and buy a thick merino blanket or german army blanket (the one I sleep with outside) and make a new from that.

- Original post from Rosentjorn Blog, modified for Reddit.

Took some time away from the machines for reasons. But a new bike inspired me to punch some new fun things out. Got a little rusty to be sure. But this will be a nice prototype for the beginning of a set for my new ride. The next will be direct mount, I’ll ride with this one to see how it works. Hope everyone is making cool things :)

A couple of pictures of 2 recent bags I've made from old sails. Originally started with a Singer 20U Professional, a couple months back I sold it when a Bernina/Chandler 217 came on the market with a cam stack attachment.

The 20U was a large upgrade from a domestic machine, which was helped by replacing the stock 3.75 inch pulley with a 2 inch pulley.

But this Bernina with the stock pulley is 10X the Singer. It goes through multiple layers of the sailcloth with ease and has much more reliable zigzag stitching. I can change from sailcloth to ripstop and keep the tension, needle and thread and nothing needs to be adjusted.

believe it or not, this weighs in at 5g vs my old zip lock bag at 10g :)

Still have to make the belt, and finish a few other details, but I’m happy with it so far. This one is about 55L and made mostly with EcoPak 200 for the exterior and Hex70 for the interior.

I’m playing around with different designs for the next pack already. This one feels a little too simple. Tell what you love and hate!

Just finished my front rack bag prototype.

It was supposed to be just a test for measurements and all but my wife did like it so much she wanted it on her bike.

As it was just a prototype I didn't add any stiffener in the bottom part so I had to add this in on the go. For the standing panels it just added some 25mm webbing. For the base I used some plexiglass I still had laying around. Added some double sided tape on the plexiglass and some elastic strips to the fabric so it sits nicely around the plexiglass.

Measurements are great but for the final version I will change the closure to go over the rolltop portion instead of being part of it.

The bag is easily detachable via 2 ladder locks on the sides to be carried around.

Base is 35x40cm height is ~47cm

Hi guys. I'm on a journey to build a motorcycle backpack. I don't know how many of you here ride but as a motorcycle commuter, it's been hard for me to find the right backpack. I hate wearing a backpack while I ride so I made this backpack to tail bag solution. The idea itself is not novel, but most solutions I've found were quite.. (to put it gently) not an office friendly look.

I've made this first prototype with some IKEA curtains that I had lying around. (Also, don't judge me. My sewing background is exactly 1 sewing class). I like the size and I tested it on the bike and it does mount on the rear seat properly.

Now here's my question. Obviously being just a simple cotton fabric it holds no form whatsoever. My next step is that I'd like to sew it with a fabric that I can use. I'm trying to research different fabrics and getting a bit confused. For a motorcycle, my top priorities are weather-proof and abrasive resistant. When I get confident enough I do want the final front panel to be hypalon for that toughness. Now for the rest of the body.. what do would you go for for waterproof and toughness? X-pac v42? Ballistic 1680 + waterproof liner? Something else?

Today I put together two pouches for an upcoming canoe trip. On longer paddle days I often feel like there isn't a good way to store snacks where they are easily accessible. I'm hoping these do the trick! The main fabric is XPac from a previous grab bag. The top and bottom panels have 1/8" eva foam as a bit of a stabilizer.

Saw someone with a chest pack on a hike a while back, which looked very convenient, so I built one, too.

Main fabrics are Ecopak EPLX400 and 70D hexagonal ripstop nylon. Seams are sealed with seam grip.

Not depicted parts are a harness that can be attached to the loops on top and the sides and a divider that can be attached to two loops on the inside and to the Velcro patch on the back panel. The divider adds another two mesh pockets on one side and has elastic to hold maps on the other side.

The logo on the front is cut out, the grey fabric behind it is reflective.

Edit: it can also transform into a sling pack with another strap I made for it. All attachments are made for Siamese silk clips, but there are attachments for carabiners, too.

Hey Folks, a bit of a long shot. This is not my project. Has anyone made something like this? I am making some for my 2017 Subaru Forester. I'm about to place an order with Dutchware and Ripstop, but was thinking maybe I should get feedback before I purchase, thoughts?

About two years ago I was looking for a backpacking pack

for my son but couldn't find anything that worked.

The Fjällräven Kajka Junior was too big and heavy for a kid, and the Decathlon options

felt too generic and were also a bit oversized.

So I just made one. Went full BPL style while I was at it. He's grown a bit since then but

still using it.

Used the Prickly Gorse pattern as a base. For my son's version I just scaled it down

when printing.

Happy stitching everyone!