Hi, I made this backpack :)

Full album with photos and details on the build process

Photos of the pack in action on my 2025 JMT thru

I have a Palante V2, which I love, but wanted something bigger while avoiding the extra weight that would come with the Desert Pack. I was inspired by all the MYOG content I consume, and though I'd never made a pack before, decided to cook up my dream bag for myself. I was definitely intimidated, and doubted myself many times throughout the process, but it all came together (by luck, or my skill, I'm not sure). Thanks for taking a look!

Specs:

• Volume: 48L (with roll-top collar extended)
• Torso length: 20"
• Weight: 16.97 oz (17.5 oz with optional Y-strap)
• Pattern: slightly modified version of the Prickly Gorse 40L frameless pack (praise be)

Features:

• A unique load stabilization system that I emulated from the Yama Gear Shrike. This design integrates a pair of load lifters into the pack's top-closure system via a y-strap and some hardware that allows weight transfer on and off the shoulder straps by adjusting a ladder lock. Rather than pulling on an internal frame like traditional load lifters do, these instead pull on the entire pack.
• An simple under-arm trekking pole stowing system made of shock cord and grommets that I emulated from the Rab Veil (pictured with my 3.9 oz MYOG carbon Z-poles!)
• Webbing length for top-mounting a bear can
• Lunch bag closure design
• Top-strap closure in two modes; Y-strap load stabilization or haul loop closure
• Palante-style bottom pocket with garbage chute, and Palante-style front pocket with hidden stake compartment
• Sternum strap with Palante-style hidden daisy chains
• Stretch mesh shoulder pockets for a phone, camera, 500-700ml Smartwater
• 1.5-inch webbing hipbelt
• Fully seam-taped
• A dope patch from Rachel Pohl/NoSo

Impressions:

• The Prickly Gorse pattern and instructions are excellent, and I'm very grateful to have had them
• The load stabilization system is definitely effective, and does create a notable stabilizing effect. Although they have a lot more "give" than real load lifters, since tensioning them simultaneously pulls and deforms the pack. Overall I was happy with them on the JMT.
• I'm mostly happy with the shoulder pockets, but I wish I made them deeper.
• The Ultra X fabric performed great, and I notice no delamination of the fabric or seam tape after the pack's first 280 miles
• The trekking pole stow system is nice, since I can access them or stow them easily on-the-go, but it's more finicky than I'd like. Something more to grab onto, like larger cord locks, might help.
• I freaking love the lunch-bag style closure. Putting the buckles on the exterior seems crazy to me now.
• 10mm foam for the shoulder straps performed perfectly well, but I probably could have done with a bit thinner.
• I should have tensioned all of my flat elastic more before sewing. The opening-edge of both the front and bottom pockets are already loose. This is my only real regret with the project.
• Overall, super stoked :)

Materials are from a variety of vendors; RSBTS, Seattle Fabrics, RockyWoods, Dutchware, Litesmith, Palante, Brautigam, Zpacks, Amazon... all parts are linked below:

Fabrics:

Body:

• Ultra 200X (3.8 osy; lower back panel, bottom panel)
• Ultra 100X (3.3 osy; upper back panel, front panel)
• 100D Robic Ripstop Nylon (3.7 osy; side pockets)
• Venom UL Stretch Mesh ECO (5.1 osy; front and bottom pockets)

Straps

• Ultra 200X (3.8 osy; exterior strap face)
• 1/8" 3D spacer mesh (10 osy; strap backing)
• Venom UL Stretch Mesh ECO (5.1 osy; shoulder pockets)
• Lycra PowerMesh (5.1 osy; small accessory pocket)
• 10mm EV50 foam from Nunatak (padding)

Notions:

Webbing:

• 5/8" X630 nylon webbing (haul loop, top strap, shoulder strap lower webbing)
• 1.5" nylon webbing (hip belt)
• 10mm nylon webbing (sternum strap daisy chain, load lifter attachment loops; repurposed from [spare Yama parts](https://yamamountaingear.com/products/load-stabilizers))

Flat Elastic:

• 3/4" flat elastic (front stretch pocket top edge, shoulder strap pocket top edge, bottom pocket and garbage chute edges)

Grosgrain:

• 1/2" grosgrain (side pocket shock cord mounting points, roll top buckle mounting points, roll top edge binding)

Shock cord:

• 2.4mm reflective orange shock cord (side compression)
• 3/32" black shock cord (side pocket closure)
• 1/16" black shock cord (trekking pole attachment points)

Seam tape:

• 1.25" UltraTNT PSA tape (cut to width as needed)

Hardware:

• Pack closure: 5/8" Titanium Top-strap G-hook
• Rolltop closure: 3/8" plastic buckle
• Hip belt: Palante hip belt buckle (~1.5")
• Sternum strap: Palante sternum strap
• Y-strap/load stabilizer system: Yama "Style A" Shrike Y-Strap
• Shoulder strap adjustment: 5/8" single-sided ladder locks
• Eyelets/grommets: Don't remember literally any info, but they were from Amazon (side pocket drain holes, trekking pole mounting points)
• Cord locks and tensioners:
  • LineLoc Hook (side compression)
  • Nexus GTSP style anchorable cord lock w/ 0.28" anchor opening
  • Glow-in-the-dark 3.4mm anchorable cord lock (trekking pole mounts)

Couldn't figure out to hide all the seams on the inside, now it works - thanks to you guys. But its still a pain to get the binding attached with a regular machine. maybe i just have to use a easier pattern and live with the seams on the inside :)

Made a canvas jacket based off of a design by the company Roark. My first time sewing a piece of clothing. Let me know what you guys think!

Here is a list of resources that helped me out!

Pattern: McCalls M7638 (modified my cut fabric to match the look I was going for)

Sew along video guide to make sure I joined lining and shell correctly: https://youtu.be/0KarqeY4cao?si=5zpMn6dUIU3aKsO6

Sleeve guide: https://youtu.be/agFB5lmlEN4?si=1av6dZ4MUc0nmnz-

(This video helped tremendously)

Jacket I used as reference: https://roark.com/products/open-roads-waxed-canvas-jacket-otter?currency=USD&variant=41777084858439&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&stkn=e4c5ec8229d0&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17067150898&gbraid=0AAAAADi7Q04nfGjyYNxSgctkEbEMQswvu&gclid=CjwKCAjwyMnNBhBNEiwA-Kcgu0MeeKtYR9TSUvFkDoCmDnZuDhn0Hqm5piKgRpFrbvgJ8AOLGEF2GhoCbhEQAvD_BwE

Trying something a bit different with different materials.

- 600D nylon with stretch denim exterior pockets

- interior lined with lightweight ripstop nylon

- front pocket also lined with metallic fabric (signal blocking for keys)

- Interior laptop pocket and 2 small mesh pockets

- 4mm EVA foam padded back

- 6mm mesh back

- Small back pocket for phone or whatever

- s-straps padded with 4mm EVA foam

- Included 20mm webbing along straps and chest strap attachments

- 20mm adjustable webbing and hold loop

Really liking the look and feel of the denim pockets. A cheaper alternative to UltraStretch (although obviously not as robust).

Finally got around to photographing this bag I made for my "I don't do backpacks" partner (she's a tote-gal) last month. She's worn it three times, which translates into big points from her!

I appreciated all the love on my last build. It came at a good time during a few tough months at my 'real' job. I definitely escape into the making and find myself constantly starting new projects so I never have nothing to think about. But it’s hard to find the time to finish stuff. Sure, if I wasn't working I'd have more time to sew and, well, no money to sew… (or pay rent) so it's just gotta be like this for now.

Specs below and swipe to last slide for the real-life Hunny who inspires it all!

Bits and bobs:

The bag is essentially a 14L box with 13 pockets, but (like anything) the details make it: rounded corners, layered panels, an oversized haul loop, the leather accents. Practical features include a clamshell zipper opening, g-hook side compression, a mesh safety pouch for sunglasses on the top panel, pleated front pocket with saddle-stitched leather flap and magnetic clasps, stretchy bottom and side pockets, 14” side-entry zipper, removable internal frame, and a 'stealth' sleeve feat. my copy of Handel’s Messiah in keeping with the orange accents.

The leatherwork is very basic but it was nice to incorporate some larger elements into the look here. It's a 'cognac' 5-6oz veg tan I source from a local workshop who only buy and sell offcuts from sustainable producers.

The outer panels are made from X11 which is an awesome pack fabric. It’s easy to sew and pretty robust, but careful with chalk marking as it doesn't come off the cotton face easily...! I'm loving where the diamond grid is starting to show on the more handled areas like in Ultra. Feels like it will age well.

The interior and pockets are all made with a variety of stuff from my scrap box that fit the bill: Taslon, Ultrastretch and Powermesh, 210D gridstop, netting, and 3d airmesh. The few pieces of hardware are anodised metal and the YKK zips are #5.

Overall, it was a nice build to try out some ideas! Would definitely make again but bring the clamshell zipper closer to the front panel to accommodate a slightly wider gusset for the pockets, or have the zipper only come down half way one side and go for something asymmetrical. Straps are comfy but could be wider, I just went pretty low-effort here to get the bag finished.

Ryanair 'friendly' at 42x29x11cm

Weighs 800g which is more than it should but yeah, X11 and leather aren’t the lightest choices.

That’s pretty much it!

EDIT: spelling/grammar

A comment mentioned this sub and i just had to post my backpack here too!

I'm over the moon🤩

This is a first attempt to make an external frame freestanding single wall tent. I am not very happy with it, but it's done enough to post a few pictures and get some feedback on it. I'm treating this thing as a prototype - many issues had to be resolved during the design and build process and there's a large number of mistakes made during the build which had to be corrected. I'm planning to use it during this season to work out any other issues and then make a second better version.

The goals I had in mind were to make a fully enclosed shelter that doesn't need trekking poles for setup, is big enough to sit up in, is narrow enough to fit in my usual woodland campsites, and has generous floor space for a single person. The floor is a bathtub style trapezoid 7 feet long with a 30 inch head width and 24 inch foot width. Starting with that as a base I played around with Easton 0.346 CF poles and a single 3-way connector to work out a frame. I found that a pair of 125 degree segments attached to the head poles worked out fairly well, since it creates a wide overhead area at the head that makes it easy to sit up. From there I made many measurements and then worked out the shelter panel shapes using Freecad. I cut out a prototype fly using Tyvek Homewrap to double check the measurements, made some adjustments, and then moved on to silpoly for the build itself. I used Dutchware Xenon Sil 1.1 for both the fly and floor, #3 zippers for the doors, and some leftover noseeum for the mesh portions. The pole clips were bought off Amazon, and the pole shoes used at the head corners came from Dutchware.

Good things: overall weight sans stakes is 1 lb 12 oz. The pole set alone is about 8 1/2 oz. A miniumum of four stakes are needed to stake out the foot and head ends. Three more can be used to stake down the corners and foot. The floor stretches itself out when set up because it's under tension from the frame. Interior height of 41 inches lets me sit up with no issues and the vestible is big enough to store gear.

Bad things: it's going to be a condensation trap when closed up. Lots of wrinkles and janky sewing because of the need to redo things. There's too many clips on the ridgeline in my opinion. The foot end is a bit droopy and needs to be fixed.

I'm going to have to add a door tie and a zipper retainer to the doorway, and then fully seam seal it before use. That should add an ounce or so to it. No pattern yet (don't ask) since it's really not a finished project. Hopefully I can work out any issues with it and move on to a DCF version. Thanks for looking.

Made for my artist gf, based off the sendak artist roll

These are made from a mix of traditional, natural materials. The outer shell is seal, which handles wind really well and sheds moisture better than most hides. The main structure is moose hide, usually in that mid-weight range, so it’s thick enough to be durable but still workable when sewing.

They’re stitched with sinew, which I like for how strong it is and how it tightens up in the cold instead of loosening off like some threads can. It also just fits the whole build better than modern synthetics for this kind of work.

Inside, they’re lined with shearling, so you’ve got the wool still attached to the hide. That gives a lot of warmth without needing extra layers, and it stays comfortable even if you’re out in real cold for a while.

Overall it’s a pretty simple build material-wise, but everything’s chosen for function—warmth, durability, and how it holds up in actual winter conditions.

No process pictures unfortunately, but here are some fun chalk bags I’ve made recently from scrap jeans, fleece, and random bits and bobs. proper fuzzy lining, clip points, all the pockets work, and proper internal cinch routing for even cinching. Open to any questions!

If you haven't used the Prickly Gorse patterns and instructions from www.myogtutorials.com, I highly recommend them. Perfedt for an ameratur MYOGer like myself, thank you sir! I finished this project at the end of last week, and took it for a test drive on the Eagle Rock Loop in the Ouachita Mountains over the weekend. I made a few modifications to the original patern, and was pleased with most of them.

Changes: I decided to go with removable straps, just because I want to try several different styles (vest, S-style, etc.) before I make the next bag. I added a zippered access to an interior pocket above the exterior pocket. I added a different type top closure that I had previously seen on this Reddit (sorry I can't remember who to give credit to). I went with the coroplast (yard sign plastic) for the frame sheet with a bent aluminum tube frame, with some 3D printed connectors. I also decided to add the Luna air mesh panel for some back ventilation. My torso is 20", and the panel fits perfectly! 👌

Things that worked: I was really happy with the bend of the frame and the addition of the Luna air mesh back pad. The frame fit my profile well, and it had enough of a bend to keep the middle part of the bag off of my back, and with the addition of the Luna panel back-sweat was not a problem. This was my first project using the 210D Venom Gridstop Eco and Venom Stetch Mesh ECO Max. Both we're fantastic to work with, and seem bomber!

Things that need some adjustments: With this type of center-closer for the bag and a long torso, I would like to add about 6" of material to the overal length. There's not quite enough material to get a good seal when folded over to make me comfortable for rainy conditions. The removable straps are kind of "floppy" when your putting the bag on. I expected this, and this bag is just an experiment, but I wouldn't want them on a thru-hiking pack. The only other thing that is annoying is the hipbelt has a "scrunchy" sound when walking? I think this is from the the 210D face fabric rubbing against the foam I used?

Anyway, sorry this got long winded, feel free to roast away! Tell me what all I screwed up, and what to do different next time.

A while back, I made an ultralight camping chair, but the seat was only rudimentary due to a lack of sewing skills and knowledge of materials.

So now I revisited the seat with some little changes in design and materials. The main fabric is now a 56gsm double ripstop instead of a regular one, and I added 34gsm 20d monofil ripstop as mesh for the side panels for breathability which improved comfortableness significantly. Also, I used nylon webbing and bias tape instead of polyester and Ultragrid for reinforcement instead of significantly heavier cordura.

That way, I was able to shave off 40 grams, which brings the overall packed weight went down to 545g and therefore closer to the goal of a lighter chair than the chair zero.

For those who wanted to know about how strong the Monofil is, I can say that it’s doing a great job! It’s not load bearing, but it’s still under high tension. Time will tell how it will perform when used repeatedly, but I’m optimistic about it.

Originally, I dreamed to buy a backpack. It has to be sturdy (no a cheap looking), for daily usage, and for stylish. But I found none, no matter it's a 70€ or 300€ backpack, I can't buy any of them. Until I bought my sewing machine.

Here I present my final dream coming true: Top opening, lunch box friendly, many storage with zip, and of course laptop storage inside the backpack.

I've used it daily until now. Besides the day I carry my laptop, I only use the lunchbox storage part, which is a totally worthy. Then is the upper storage, the top-opening can ensure that I can carry more than I thought. A total weight of 12KG was the record that I have carried from the supermarket.

However,
- the handle was kind of useless because I seldom turn it 90 degree
- synthesis fabrics are really unfriendly at the edge ... but I appreciate its water-proof. Yes I did carry it during the rainy day on a bike.

I think the total cost of this backpack is around 60€, clothes from German Ebay, and small parts are from TEMU (but need some luck for returning bad products). I made two order to get what I really need.

Climbing gym had some old rope laying around, I wanted to make a new chalk bag - 1100D cordura, waxed cotton pocket, micro fleece lining, gusseted base/sides, the learning aspect of this little project

She ain’t perfect, but I finally finished! I set out to only use upcycled materials: a pair of split jeans, an old rain jacket, and a thrift store bag. I learned a lot, especially that using upcycled materials definitely makes it more difficult to get everything even!

I’ve been testing something while building a backpack prototype.

Most bags force you into one mode:

– Camera bags → no real load support, all on shoulders

– Hiking packs → great support, but bulky for everyday

There’s no middle ground.

So I tried adding a removable hip belt:

– When carrying weight → proper load transfer

– When not → completely clean, no bulk

It made a bigger difference than I expected.

What I’m trying to figure out now is:

Do people actually want this?

Or do most people just avoid hip belts altogether?

Hi all!!

I’m very new to sewing projects, just started a few weeks ago and having a lot of fun. It’s a very nice distraction from work, and I have a ton to learn.

That said, this is my first successful wearable object, Green Pepper unlined anorak jacket with modifications, all cotton duck. I plan on waxing it soon, just haven’t studied to process enough yet. I spend a lot of my day job in an aerial lift (spring/summer/fall), so I wanted something wind blocking with a good belly/chest pocket for quick access that’s not blocked by a harness. I was worried I wouldn’t be able to do the zipper very well, but all 3 are fully functional and feel strong, easy sliding too. Underarm zips for venting are amazing, wish all jackets had this.

One modification I made (unseen in video) is the divider in the chest pocket. I didn’t like the idea of a dump pocket where it all falls to the bottom, this way objects sit closer to the body while active.

The other modification I made was the back pockets, similar to a hunting jacket or cycling jersey. Fully admit this was not as successful as I’d like. I think the pocket needs to be much deeper, a lot was cropped in folding the bottom of the jacket. Next time I’ll slide it farther up and hope out doesn’t somehow interfere with the vent zippers.

Anyways, I’m amazed to be daily wearing something I made with my hands, and most of the materials in it are natural, how nice.