I've been sewing bags for 2-3 years now, and I've mostly used existing patterns or made hand-drafted ones, but I'd never modeled an accurate bag in 3D until this project.

I've been taking CLO 3D classes through Parsons / TheNewSchool, and I've learned how to sew in 3D as a result. The classes are heavily focused on garment construction, but the same principles can be applied to bag-making.

I chose to model a Disc Golf bag, since I've made one before. I was able to design the panels, "sew" them together, generate a PDF pattern, print, cut, and assemble the bag without too many issues. Made some bonus wallets from the scraps.

There are definitely some gotchas when modeling bags in CLO, such as having to simulate the bag standing up by adding internal pressure, as well as disabling gravity sometimes. This can give the bag kind of a "marshmallow" or "jumping castle" look.

I wanted my shock-cord zipper pulls to be accurate, and I had no idea how to do that in CLO, so I used Blender to model the pulls as bezier curves with a texture applied, then exported as a glb file.

The pattern isn't quite ready for release yet, but I plan to make a revision, build one more, then release the pattern for others to use. Let me know if you're interested in the comments, and I can ping you when I release it.

For a while I was admiring these shorts (that I can’t find anywhere) and some rapha ones in the same color and was just so frustrated on not being able to find my dream bike shorts in stock.

Then I remembered I can make things.

SO looking for recommendations on 4 way stretch Lycra in this color or if anyone has experience dying Lycra?? (and any advice for someone working with the fabric for the first time)

Thanks so much in advance!!

Edit: thanks for the info! For context I’m an experienced sewer just haven’t sewn Lycra yet. It’s also a bit of a passion project so I’m fully aware it may not be pretty the first or second run but I’ll learn a lot if nothing else :) I’ll likely start by making a sports bra and a few other things before the shorts to get a hang of the fabric. Thank you!!

Really liking this colour!

• Glacier Blue X-Pac X
• Black UltraStretch front, side and bottom pockets
• L capacity and weighs in at
• Side compression straps
• Roll top with poppers for closure
• Single top strap with G-Hook
• Rear pocket with key loop and YKK AquaGuard zip
• Removable sternum strap
• printed thumbs pulls (PETG)
• printed webbing keepers (PETG)
• All inside seams trimmed and bound
• mm Nylon webbing

I've got plenty of fabric to make a few of these if anyone is interested.

Edit: By the above I mean if you’re in the UK I have a lot of X11 and would be happy to share.

Virtually everything on it it repurposed material from the old backpack. The only thing that isn't is the shoulder strap! The plastic inside was becoming really sticky and one of the shoulders straps had a huge rip on the webbing so I'm happy with what I managed to save!

Learn MYOG Tech Pouch with XPac VX21 RFID shell from RBTR, and UltraGrid in bronze from Rockywoods for the lining and zipper pocket. The side pockets are Venom Mesh. Of all my projects, the tech pouch is the most appreciated by my friends and family.

Hey Folks,

I made a post a few weeks ago about making window covers and through the magic of Reddit got put in touch with Jameson at RBTR. I played off his design and his gracious feedback to work on this version for my Subaru. Shoutout to Dutchware and RBTR for carrying quality myog supplies. Pretty happy with how it turned out, but might tweak a few things for a second version. Giving it a test run at the gunks this weekend!

Finally got my hands on some X-Pac X11, although had to order an obscene amount to get it in the UK. This is the first pack produced using it.

• Mountain Brown X11 with Coyote Brown UltraStretch front, side and bottom pockets.
• Gear loop on the bottom with corresponding bungee near the top.
• Compression straps on both sides.
• Roll top with poppers and a single strap using a G-Hook.
• Rear top pocket with key loop and YKK AquaGuard zips.
• All inside seams trimmed and bound.
• Padded S-Straps using 4mm 85kg/m3 EVA foam and 600D Nylon.
• Back is padded with same foam and 600D Nylon.
• Removable sternum strap.
• 3D printed thumbs pulls designed and printed by me.
• Webbing Keepers also designed and 3D printed by me.
• Works out at about 26L and weighs in at 720g.

Really happy with the final results!

Been a really great way for me to learn!

Was so stoked as I built this thinking I had pioneered a new feature, oh to be ignorant hey. Either way pleased with how it came out. Also experimented with a retractable stabiliser strap system which I designed and 3D printed, idea being it would slide along some soft rails. It doesn’t work well at all but I reckon the bones are there for a V2 at some point.

This was my second try making a beer sling optimized for ease/speed of sewing. It's essentially a long zipper pouch with foam and a shoulder strap.

I meant to take more pictures but gave it to a friend too soon so I have to settle with this video.

The pattern is a 23"x11" rectangle and is sewn flat to avoid fussing with small circles or gussets. I sewed the outer and liner together, cut it 1" from the top, slid in the foam, and sewed in the zipper to make a large rectangular zipper panel. This allowed a single piece of foam to give it a rounder shape when turned out and limited the number of seams.

Once the zipper was on I tripled stitched the strap to each side and folded the whole thing in half length wise. Then the three sides were sewn and finished with 1" poly herringbone.

I'm super happy with the end result. I wanted something slim enough to hold cans and I knew trying to sew a cylindrical bag that small of diameter would not work for me. It holds the shape nicely when full and there's not too much wasted space at the ends.

Outer:600d vinyl backed polyester

Liner: 3.9oz ripstop

Structure: 1/8" closed cell foam - 21.5"x8.5". Inserted before sewing on zipper.

The zipper is installed 1" down from the top. 21.5" zipper with double slide.

1.5" seatbelt webbing with Fidlock Slider buckle.

I made these for my dad and his gf for Christmas last year and they were very well received. This is a fantastic pattern. The accompanying tutorial video was very well done. Fabric is Ecopak EPX200 from Refasten. Pattern is the Porter 35 Duffle from LearnMYOG.

Learn MYOG Tech Pouch with XPacVX21RS RFID from RBTR for the shell, and UltraGrid in bronze from Rockywoods for the lining and zipper pocket. The side pockets are Venom Mesh. Of all of my projects, the Tech Pouch is the most appreciated by my family and friends.

I really liked the bellroy lite sling, so I made my own version with better colours. It’s a bit simpler with no front pocket. But I didn’t like the front pocket honestly, it never felt big enough for anything useful. This is a cool shape and i learned a lot making it!

This was a real challenge for me. It’s my third backpack, but it has a lot of features I’ve never tried before. Two zippers sewn into the gusset, one for laptop access, one for the clamshell access. Features include:
-21”x14”x8” clamshell
-Large padded expandable laptop sleeve with raised bottom
-Integrated admin pouch
-Mesh internal pockets
-External expanding pouch with snap lid
-Side water bottle pockets

Primary fabric is EPX420, liner is Robic 420D, bottom is X50, back panel is Cordura 1000D, YKK #8 Aquaguard, internal pockets YKK #5, mesh 9.6oz Dyneema Stretch Mesh, 10mm and 6mm EVAZOTE.

This project really pushed my abilities. It is certainly not perfect, but it’s very comfortable and works as intended. I’d be lying if I said at times it didn’t make me want to hang up my thread and give up sewing forever, but I’m glad I pushed through, fixed my mistakes and finished the project.

It’s an original design but I took inspiration from the GoRuck GR2 and the AZO Dejen Adventurer. I’ve always wanted the Dejen but it’s a bit too small and a lot bit too expensive for me. Plus it’s fun making stuff.

One night at the maker space, I worked on two different sewing machines. One was a mid 70s singer machine. I spent about an hour cleaning and lubricating it, and it worked like new after that.

The machine in the photo add an issue that my expert friend and I could not figure out. This is what it looked like over 90 minutes later, with two of us working intently on it. We never did figure out what was wrong with it, and it probably still looks like this.

Friends don’t let friends buy $200 plastic sewing machines! They are virtually unrepairable, even in the opinion of technicians at a local sewing machine shop I go to occasionally.
“I’m sorry, it will cost more to repair it than the machine is worth.” I actually witnessed that conversation.

Hello everyone,

I present to you my Alpine 35 LT.

TL;DR

• 35L, though slightly bigger than my other 35L backpacks
• 420D ripstop nylon
• 475g with frame V2, tubular 6mm aluminium
• Use cases: mountaineering / alpine climbing in the Alps, hike & fly, fast & light ski mountaineering missions

Intro & objectives

I have owned and used many backpacks, but never really found the perfect one for my use case. This one was aimed at alpine climbing in the Alps, hike & fly, and fast & light ski missions.

I wanted it to be as light and minimalist as possible, climb really well, and still carry well enough for long approaches with a lot of gear or skis. It also had to be bomb proof. Also, I’m quite tall, 193cm, so I wanted a great fit.

Design

I like a 35L backpack in the mountains. It lets me keep everything inside the pack, including rope and helmet, without being so big that it becomes awkward, annoying, or encourages me to bring way too much stuff. Because I’m quite tall, it does not feel huge at all.

To keep it as minimal as possible, the sides, front, and bottom are all made from the same panel. There are no pockets besides the shoulder strap pockets, which I really like in the mountains for hydration and food without stopping every 5 seconds.

The shoulder strap shape was made by covering my torso with painter’s tape, drawing the shape, then digitizing it. You need someone to help you with this. The fit ended up being excellent.

Fabric

I used 420D ripstop nylon for the whole backpack. Cheap and strong. I also doubled the bottom part for extra robustness and ski-carry strength.

Structure & frame

I wanted a structure that checked a few boxes:

• easy to manufacture myself
• carries well
• climbs well, with good freedom between hips and torso and not too much torsional rigidity

I ended up with a first structure, let’s call it V1, made from 6mm tubular aluminium. It meets the hip belt in the center, to maximize movement between hips and torso, and forms a sort of cane shape. The idea was to avoid barreling at shoulder level, create a direct link with the load lifters, avoid too much stiffness, and keep it light. No foam or plastic!

The hip belt is simply a full-wrap 38mm webbing belt. It links very strongly with the frame. Not the most comfortable, but it does transfer weight quite well when cinched down tight.

As you’ll read in the “crash test” section, that frame was a bit too weak, at least for ski + boot carries. I built a second version, V2, that is similar but with a second vertical member. This makes it twice as strong, with symmetrical loading on the shoulders, while seemingly keeping the same flexibility. I can’t wait to test this new version on a real mission.

Ice axe & ski carry

The backpack can carry 2 ice axes or ice tools and/or skis.

Ice axe: the usual bungee-based system found on many backpacks. I like it a lot: it’s light, not much can break, it works for trekking poles, and the tools are anchored very solidly.

Skis: the mini daisy at the bottom is reinforced with a double layer of 420D and takes a Voile ski strap perfectly. I also added small webbing loops next to the load lifters, so the top compression strap can loop around the skis and be fixed very strongly to the frame itself. This works on both sides. The result is a very solid carry. The best I’ve had on any backpack. It feels fused with the backpack and frame, with no wobbling.

Weight

I was hoping for sub-700g. Let’s just say I was quite happily surprised to see 455g, with structure V1, when I finished the pack. It is now 475g with structure V2.

Crash test

I climbed and skied Gran Paradiso in a day last weekend using the backpack. We had around 1000m D+ of ski carry out of 2100m total. It was still using structure V1.

Clearly, that was too weak for skis + boots + gear. The horizontal part of the structure bent much more than I expected, leading to asymmetrical loading on the shoulders and not enough strength. I believe it would have been much better with structure V2. That being said, I feel like the backpack carries really well for its weight. Very significantly better than my Blue Ice Dragonfly 34, for example, and a bit better than my Arc’teryx FL30. And that was with structure V1.

Another thing I wanted to test was whether going without foam or plastic would be ok. Clearly, you have to organize the backpack a bit better than one with a rigid sheet, but with the frame sitting in the middle for half the backpack, it is more than ok! I expect structure V2 to be even better in that respect, as the only badly placed gear I could feel was in the “void” of structure V1, below the unsupported part of the horizontal bit.

One thing that surprised me was how well it skis. I expected it to fly around on the way down: hip belt only linked in the middle, no compression straps. However, it skied significantly better than my Arc’teryx Khamski. I suspect this is thanks to the very direct frame / hip belt link, and the semi-vest-style shoulder straps.

Next steps

My next build will be a ski touring / ski mountaineering backpack. Similar idea, but with a few changes:

• around 40L
• “real” hip belt, still full wrap
• side compression straps
• avy gear pocket
• back panel access

I’m hoping for sub-800g :)

Several people on r/sewing pointed me to this sub! I love it here already. You all are amazing and I’m looking forward to following for more inspiration!

The weather is finally good enough to take my bike for a ride and show you some pictures of my front rack bag.

Base measurements are roughly 35x40cm height ist ~43cm.

The bottom part is made out of XPac X11, Front and back are padded with 10mm recycled foam and the sides with 5mm Eva foam. The bottom has a plexiglass plate for rigidity.

Lining is XPac V15 and the rolltop is 1.43oz DCF I got out of a RBTR grab bag.

Added a bit of V15 on the outside for the attachment flaps.

Iw would have preferred some binding on the inside seams at the bottom but the 10mm foam with the other fabrics maxed out my machine and I'm not the best at binding anyways.

The webbing straps can be used as carrying handles as well if you want to take the bag with you.

Here is a link to the prototype post.

Blade is bought, but handle and sheath is made by me. Brass, birch burl, horn and antler. Nipped the blade while shaping the handle and didn't grind it out completly and many other flaws. But he loves it!

About two years ago I was looking for a backpacking pack

for my son but couldn't find anything that worked.

The Fjällräven Kajka Junior was too big and heavy for a kid, and the Decathlon options

felt too generic and were also a bit oversized.

So I just made one. Went full BPL style while I was at it. He's grown a bit since then but

still using it.

Used the Prickly Gorse pattern as a base. For my son's version I just scaled it down

when printing.

Happy stitching everyone!

Hi there!
This is potentially just the subreddit for me. I make lots of my own gear and it currently in a 'oldschool cool' phase. Making my own gear from canvas, webbing, leather, fur, oilskin and such.

I was encouraged to share my anorak in here. So here goes.

I've wanted a wool anorak for many years—ever since I saw some random ad from a Chinese online store featuring an anorak made of “wool.” I later found out it was a knock-off of the Boreal Mountain Anorak.
Around the same time, I stumbled across eight wool blankets from the Civil Defense at a thrift store—just 50 crowns (8USD) each. I bought them all.

I don't now the wool % in the blankets, as they're all different mixes of scrap. So they swing between 30 - 70 % in wool. (I figures that out after freezing outside, thinking they all had a lot of wool). One could weight the blankets, and pick the heaviest one.

I'd been thinking about how to design the anorak for some years —without any prior experience making sewing patterns or anything like that.
This is how the experiment went: sacrifice one blanket and try to sew an anorak.
I used a cheap sewing machine from Aldi, some fairly heavy-duty needles, and strong thread. I also used a bit of paracord, some scrap leather, and edge binding.

I've been using this for 1.5 years now, it holds really well. And I've just recently made some small improvements and extra stiching.

Next up is giving it some homemade weather proofing with a wax, parafin, lanolin, linseed oil mix.

Step 1 – The Anorak

Fold the blanket in half. I made the back of the anorak a bit longer than the front. Lay down on top of the fabric and check that the sleeves will be long enough.
The body of the anorak is made from one single piece—sleeves, torso, and shoulders are all cut as one.

The pieces are sewn together down to about waist level, where your legs bend, for maximum freedom of movement.
The large leftover cutoffs are saved for detailing later.

Step 2 – The Hood

I found a large hoodie at a thrift store and cut off the hood. I took it apart at the seams and used it as a pattern.
It was easy to sew a hood from the blanket and attach it to the anorak. I also cut a slit down the front of the chest. A triangular scrap piece is sewn underneath to keep it closed properly.
With eyelets and a drawstring, you can tighten the hood opening when it’s really cold.

Step 3 – The Chest Pocket

The chest pocket is made from one of the large leftover pieces from step 1. I made sure to give it a proper bottom so that items don’t fall out—it has a bit of a “wall” on the side.

I added the pocket after sewing the anorak together in step 1—next time I’ll do it beforehand to make things easier.

While working, I got the idea to sew rabbit fur on the inside of the pocket and quickly stitched it to create two smaller compartments.
The rabbit fur is super nice on cold fingers. These two small pockets now hold my phone and a knife or multitool. I also stitched in a leather loop with a D-ring, which holds my keys in place with a carabiner.

Step 4 – Waist Drawstring

Another idea that came during the build: I sewed a strip of edge binding all the way around the waist and ran a length of paracord through it.
Most of the time, I don’t cinch it tight, but when it’s really cold, it’s nice to be able to seal out the wind.

I also added eyelets to the sides so that the anorak can be laced shut along the sides with a bit of cord—helpful in winter to close it an extra 15 cm on each side.

Step 5 – Cuffs

The sleeves felt a little too open. So I used some small leftover pieces, cut them into trapezoid shapes, and sewed them in as adjustable cuffs.
They tighten with a drawstring, which adds a bit of length and helps seal around the wrists—while keeping the sleeves comfortably wide.

Step 6 – Small Pockets

The anorak was basically done, but I still had some fabric scraps left. So I made a couple of small front pockets.
They sit just below the belt line. My work belt fits above the small pockets but below the chest pocket.

These little pockets turned out perfect for holding gloves and wrist warmers.
There’s also a ring sewn into the side of the anorak—great for clipping on my heavy leather gloves. Thin liner gloves fit perfectly in the small pockets.

Later improvements done
After a year or so I stitch all the edges, some had begone to fray a bit. Next anorak - do it right from the start.

I also added a large butt pouch, it's great with the extra layer sitting on moist ground, and it holds my shemagh.

If this (when this) dies some day. I'll spend the cash and buy a thick merino blanket or german army blanket (the one I sleep with outside) and make a new from that.

- Original post from Rosentjorn Blog, modified for Reddit.

This is the myogtutorials.com (Prickly Gorse) saddelbag. It's the first time I've printed a pattern and followed a set of instructions. It has been fun to make something designed by a professional, and it really puts my own work into perspective, very inspiring.

I printed the pattern on a4 sheets and taped them together before cutting them out. The instructions have been easy to follow, and I think the project itself is actually pretty manageable even for someone without loads of experience. The hardest part is definitely the bulk of the layers at some of the seams, but I'm fortunate to have an industrial walking foot machine and it handled it all very well.

The bag itself is very nice. It's well proportioned, solid, and seems practical and useful. Because of its height, it's not a good fit for my Carradice Bagman Sport bag support, but I think the Expedition version would work. Otherwise it can also be mounted on the handlebars.

I added the d-rings on the lid, and left out the d-rings at the side for the carrying strap, but that's the only changes to the pattern I've made.

The materials I've used are

- olive 500d Cordura

- 5 color flecktarn 500d Cordura

- brick red EPX200

- black 210d gridstop

- silver bullet RBC200

- 1 mm hdpe sheet

- 25 mm polyamid webbing, buckles and d-rings

It's the most advanced project I've ever sewn, and I'm quite happy with the result.

Seems like this type of pad is going out of style -- hard to find for sale anywhere. Bit of a tricky project but I'm happy with these. They weigh about 16 oz each with no foam cutouts and heavy, 70d fabric. Hoping the next version is more like 10-11 oz.

Took some time away from the machines for reasons. But a new bike inspired me to punch some new fun things out. Got a little rusty to be sure. But this will be a nice prototype for the beginning of a set for my new ride. The next will be direct mount, I’ll ride with this one to see how it works. Hope everyone is making cool things :)

Just finished my first MYOG backpack. Based on the Prickly Gorse 25L pattern that I adapted to my needs.

Pack will be used for skitour, climbing and paragliding.

The pattern is super easy to follow with many options to choose from. I went the no-nosense route by deleting most of the pockets.

I tried a more "trail running" style sternum clip with sewn in cord and specific clips. The pack is well held in place with this solution.

My only complaint is that the shoulder straps are too tiny for me (1m82, 68kg). They don't wrap around low enough and the bottle are located too high up. Something to fix on my next try :) !

The finished pack weights in at just 270gr.

Fabric is UltraWeave 200x from MYOG UK.

Still have to make the belt, and finish a few other details, but I’m happy with it so far. This one is about 55L and made mostly with EcoPak 200 for the exterior and Hex70 for the interior.

I’m playing around with different designs for the next pack already. This one feels a little too simple. Tell what you love and hate!

Just finished my front rack bag prototype.

It was supposed to be just a test for measurements and all but my wife did like it so much she wanted it on her bike.

As it was just a prototype I didn't add any stiffener in the bottom part so I had to add this in on the go. For the standing panels it just added some 25mm webbing. For the base I used some plexiglass I still had laying around. Added some double sided tape on the plexiglass and some elastic strips to the fabric so it sits nicely around the plexiglass.

Measurements are great but for the final version I will change the closure to go over the rolltop portion instead of being part of it.

The bag is easily detachable via 2 ladder locks on the sides to be carried around.

Base is 35x40cm height is ~47cm

Been working on a new anorak pattern, here’s an initial version I’m pretty happy with. It has raglan sleeves and a big secure kangaroo pocket up front, with hand pockets behind. It’s self packable in the pouch and would want a reversible zipper slider, although I don’t have any on hand. The three-piece hood has great peripheral vision and sits nicely over brow without feeling bulky. I want to raise the neckline a little and improve the hood facing on my next revision.

The fit is intentionally oversized and heavily inspired by vintage L.L. Bean anoraks which are available again. On Instagram, I see a Japanese maker doing similar and wish I could get the grid fabric they use. The shock cord around waist cinches it for a bloused look and keeps it up around my waist which I dig. This was made with kimono sleeves which give a lot of room in the arms but I’ll raise the scye drop a little bit, giving more range of motion.

I’ve been testing it in taslan fabric and it really suits the loose fit. It’s airy and lightweight while also feeling substantial and durable. I think the fit makes this really versatile. Any fabric would work with this such as waxed canvas, WPB fabric, ultralight or fleece. I look forward to trying one in active insulation like Polartec Power Grid to see how it performs as a lightweight outer layer for XC skiing if next season sees more snow.

Curious your thoughts on ideal fabric for Anorak jacket like this?

A ventile shell jacket made of EtaProof 200, following Shelby Outdoor's Abisko pattern. Great fabric and really nice pattern. I changed the pit vents a little bit and added panels on the front pockets to hide the zippers.

My only complaint about the pattern is that it is quite narrow on the body. I made this one XL which was the biggest size and unfortunately for me at least it doesn't leave enough room for proper winter layering. Should have thought about this before cutting the fabric.. Sleeves are roomy and the length is good though.

I'm considering making another jacket like this in brown/green for hunting and then I would make it a bit wider. Maybe for that purpose I would also add large hand pockets on the front. Only problem is that ventile fabrics are quite expensive.. For this jacket I had great luck, bought 3 meters of the fabric for 40 euros (second hand, somebody didn't finish their project).

Overall, I'm very happy with the project!

This is a massive pack. At 90L before accounting for roll top storage, it is designed to carry a heavy load and stay tolerable on long portages; some up to 5km in Canada. For those who have paddled before, this pack probably looks tall. It is, but I haven't found the height hinders carrying the boat at all.

My main goals were to provide plenty of attachment points for gear like a PFD or paddle, keep the pack reasonably water resistant, and maximize internal volume. I think I managed all three.

The body is XPac, the bottom panel is Ultra 200 with a PSA nylon inner layer from Challenge Fabrics, and the accent material is Venom Gridstop. The lash tabs and roll top stiffener are Hypalon. All the fabric came from Ripstop by the Roll, mostly out of one of their grab bags.

For the pack frame I went with a "X" design and used Ash wooden stays. I also have a 4# xlpe foam sheet behind the stays.

I haven't decided whether to make a tump line or a hip belt; maybe I'll just make both.

• 16"h x 9"w x 13"tall
• 5 oz/yd 1970s Hobie Cat sailcloth for main body
• 1.6 oz HyperD PU4000 bag liner
• 200D Ecopak EXP200 bottom
• seatbelt webbing for straps
• Mara 50 thread in grey and black

I need to shorten the support rods so the nose isnt so high.

Was running some errands in the rain today and annoyed about my butt being wet every time i got back on my bike, so I decided to solve that problem. Had some leftover ripstop lying around so I threw together a quick little rain cover for my seat. The shock cord that goes around the edge is sewn directly to a little pouch that straps onto the bottom front of the seat. That way it's always attached to my bike and there if I need it!

1.3, 0.8oz DCF. 99% Bonding

580(exclude Pole)

800(include Pole)

in summer South Korea 40℃

winter -25℃

So i will use this winter shelter, summet tent(attach inner tent)

Made an A-frame bug bivy to go with my borah solo tarp. Not perfect, but I’m happy with how it turned out! It’ll come in handy for early summer buggy evenings in the Sierra. Floor is .93ozsqyd silpoly membrane, mesh is .67ozsqyd, #5 zipper with 2 pulls (really just needed 1), and the mesh reinforcement/ridgeline is 3/8in grosgrain. Total weight with guylines is right around 6oz! Stoked.

Still obsessed with turning retired climbing rope into belts. Here's exactly how I do it:

1) Get some rope

Climbing gyms are sitting on piles of the stuff. Ask nicely and they'll usually hand it over or sell it to you very cheaply. Using your old rope is even better.

2) Wash it

It is usually disgusting. The water turns black. Just trust the process. Top loading washing machine is easiest, or a tub of warm soapy water with a rope brush if you don't have one. Rope brushes are cheap on Amazon. Dry it fully before doing anything else.

3) Cut to length

Measure for your waist and cut it down. Pretty self-explanatory.

4) Pull the core out

Grab pliers, grab the core at one end, and pull. Most of the time, this is satisfying and easy. Static ropes are really annoying and will test your patience. Once it's out, the sheath flattens into a webbing material and it already kind of looks like a belt.

5) Sew it together

Zigzag stitch down the full length with the two flattened pieces together. I started on a Singer Heavy Duty, which works great for this step.

6) Seal the ends

Lighter works fine. Hot knife is cleaner if you have one.

7) Attach the buckle (Hardest Part)

This is the hard part. Pick your buckle style, D-rings or a frame buckle, wrap the end around it and sew through all the layers. It's thick so your machine will feel it. If you're going to upgrade anything, get a machine with higher foot clearance. Makes this step a lot less painful.

Burn off the thread ends and you're done.

I think retired rope deserves better than a landfill. Happy to answer any questions below.

I made this fun triangle bag from a burlap rice bag. It's backed with duck canvas that I already had.

The pattern is the Triangle Bag from Tytka Studio. It was pretty easy to follow, but I did make some minor changes.

A little progress video on my latest fanny pack project - and my second fanny pack build so far.

Now with a full hi-vis 235 dtex interior and an outer shell in Ranger Green 560 dtex Invista Cordura.

There’s definitely a steep learning curve when sewing gear, but I’m learning a little every time. A Bosch hot glue pen for temporarily holding the fabric together makes it 100 times easier.

Main inspiration comes from HPG, Kukkaru, and the color scheme is heavily inspired by Kifaru.

(Haven't figured it out yet, but I'm proud of the stuff I've made)

Haven’t used a sewing machine since I was a kid, but got inspired by this subreddit! Put in the time over the past month and really like how they came out. Xpac materials with a sew in interface on the sides of the frame bags for added structure. The dry bags might be my favorite. Seam sealed with seam tape.

Just finished this pair of jeans using the Quadra pattern by Thread Theory. Great pattern, good directions. No sew-along video, but they have a pretty detailed series of blog posts that helped me through the tricky parts. I'm really excited to wear these to the office tomorrow!

I'm working through the beginner progression on LearnMYOG and made this dopp kit after making a few zip pouches and stuffsacks. I wanted the contrasting thread for the color combo but recognize that it shows all my mistakes. Some new skills on this project: sewing stretch fabrics, sewing incredibly slippery fabrics (1.1 oz silpoly), making bartacks, sewing through multiple layers.

I should have tried to press the HyperD material before starting!

I wasn't expecting how sheer the 1.1 oz silpoly would be - it shows the layers within the seam allowance behind it.

I'm not actually sure I need all of the internal pockets but making them was great practice. Now I have a functional piece of gear that I can use and actually really needed.

I had a friend ask if I do bicycle handlebar bags. She’s racing SBT gravel in a few months, so how could I say no?? Whipped up a prototype, and then a production version based on lessons learned. Really happy with how it turned out!

EcoPack 400 for outer fabric, HyperD300 for liner. Walmart cutting mat for stiffener after finding out my usual 1/16” plastic is far too rigid to insert into the bag.

I wanted a reasonably ultralight oblong or rectangular frying pan for small mountain trout.

Most of the pans I’ve seen are round or they’re not very long and the 8+ inch round ones tend to be heavy-ish.

I made this one out of a Nordicware aluminum bread pan. I cut the top off and used a strip of the remaining top to create a handle with a small wood rod that I had laying around. The entire thing weighs about 4 1/2 ounces with the handle.

It is 8 1/2 inches long and 5 inches wide. The handle is removable.

!!! PLEASE NOTE It has been pointed out to me that this is unsafe and is an entanglement hazard as is. I plan to lower the COG and add lower connection points to prevent it from flipping over my head, and will only use on flat calm water where tipping the boat is not likely. DO NOT MAKE THIS AS IS FOR YOUR OWN USE, I AM JUST A DUFUS WHO LIKES TO PADDLE, NOT A QUALIFIED WATER-SCIENTIST. !!!

Started using hydration bladders when hiking, and went to use one while kayaking, and it was awkward, with a separate bag and a long tube. I was worried about a tangle hazard in addition to it being cumbersome.

Came up with this bag to hang in the back of the PFD to hold the bladder, with zipper access and a tube passageway. It’s way more streamlined, and seems safer.

Made with 210D Venom Gridstop. “Insulated” with Reflectix. Not sure how much good it’ll do thermally on the inside, but it ads a nice structure and perhaps a minimal amount of buoyancy?

Using g-clips to attach to the shoulder straps, and an elastic band attached with g-clips to hold the bottom secure. Reflective strip on the back to increase visibility.

Included a pic of it inside out, because preparing and installing the binding took like 1/4 of the time of the project, which is crazy for something that will mostly not be seen. 🤣

Finished with a pic of funny birds from a paddle this week.

Just in time for spring, I finished my second backpack. The goal was 3lbs with the frame, but I went with some thinner spandex for all of the outer pockets just because I like it's stretch, and I used some 1000D cordura on the bottom and back panel for some added strength. The rest is XPAC V15. Ended up being about 3.5lbs with the frame. I can still drill some holes into the frame sheet though to save some weight. Total capacity should be about 50l all the way up to 65l. I'm not super happy with the hip belt, so I will likely remake that after I do the first test.

I have those little grapple hooks I 3d printed that will help me add straps to all of the little black loops when needed, or if I want to make any accessories.

The two side pockets have a quick access spot in the bottom corner, and underneath the bottom panel is a map pocket.

Pretty fun project, I don't think I'll ever enjoy making the shoulder straps, such a pain.

Adapted the Prickly Gorse fanny pack pattern to covert from a fanny pack to a bike handlebar bag.

Added a retractable key ring behind the back panel padding for easy access to my work badge and keys so I don’t have to dig around for them.

Stitched the MN state flag into the back panel for a little hometown flare.

Used X-PAC RX30 fabric in Goldenrod and Slate.

Made this for a friend, who bought a new tool.

hey guys, I have been lurking on here looking at all your wonderful projects and I decided to have a go at making a frame bag (to match my other bags I bought) I created the templates from scratch and it's holding up quite well!

I made a few mistakes that I've learnt from, and I'm looking forward to starting another project. I went to my local scrapstore and picked up a load of fabric including huge offcuts of ripstop donated by a local hot air balloon company.

Newest addition to the collection. Based off of hyperlite ice pack. Left to right is order I made them in.

Back is padded and has spot for removable hip belt, ice axes, crampons, and extra attachment points.

Made with xpac VX21 and Hyper D 300

Frame bag has a removable divider in the main compartment and a large seperate pocket on the non drive side with mesh pockets at the top. Foam lined around the edges to prevent rattles on the frame. Top tube bag has interfacing in side panels to create a firm structure. Made with X-Pac VX21 & X11.