About two years ago I was looking for a backpacking pack

for my son but couldn't find anything that worked.

The Fjällräven Kajka Junior was too big and heavy for a kid, and the Decathlon options

felt too generic and were also a bit oversized.

So I just made one. Went full BPL style while I was at it. He's grown a bit since then but

still using it.

Used the Prickly Gorse pattern as a base. For my son's version I just scaled it down

when printing.

Happy stitching everyone!

Hi there!
This is potentially just the subreddit for me. I make lots of my own gear and it currently in a 'oldschool cool' phase. Making my own gear from canvas, webbing, leather, fur, oilskin and such.

I was encouraged to share my anorak in here. So here goes.

I've wanted a wool anorak for many years—ever since I saw some random ad from a Chinese online store featuring an anorak made of “wool.” I later found out it was a knock-off of the Boreal Mountain Anorak.
Around the same time, I stumbled across eight wool blankets from the Civil Defense at a thrift store—just 50 crowns (8USD) each. I bought them all.

I don't now the wool % in the blankets, as they're all different mixes of scrap. So they swing between 30 - 70 % in wool. (I figures that out after freezing outside, thinking they all had a lot of wool). One could weight the blankets, and pick the heaviest one.

I'd been thinking about how to design the anorak for some years —without any prior experience making sewing patterns or anything like that.
This is how the experiment went: sacrifice one blanket and try to sew an anorak.
I used a cheap sewing machine from Aldi, some fairly heavy-duty needles, and strong thread. I also used a bit of paracord, some scrap leather, and edge binding.

I've been using this for 1.5 years now, it holds really well. And I've just recently made some small improvements and extra stiching.

Next up is giving it some homemade weather proofing with a wax, parafin, lanolin, linseed oil mix.

Step 1 – The Anorak

Fold the blanket in half. I made the back of the anorak a bit longer than the front. Lay down on top of the fabric and check that the sleeves will be long enough.
The body of the anorak is made from one single piece—sleeves, torso, and shoulders are all cut as one.

The pieces are sewn together down to about waist level, where your legs bend, for maximum freedom of movement.
The large leftover cutoffs are saved for detailing later.

Step 2 – The Hood

I found a large hoodie at a thrift store and cut off the hood. I took it apart at the seams and used it as a pattern.
It was easy to sew a hood from the blanket and attach it to the anorak. I also cut a slit down the front of the chest. A triangular scrap piece is sewn underneath to keep it closed properly.
With eyelets and a drawstring, you can tighten the hood opening when it’s really cold.

Step 3 – The Chest Pocket

The chest pocket is made from one of the large leftover pieces from step 1. I made sure to give it a proper bottom so that items don’t fall out—it has a bit of a “wall” on the side.

I added the pocket after sewing the anorak together in step 1—next time I’ll do it beforehand to make things easier.

While working, I got the idea to sew rabbit fur on the inside of the pocket and quickly stitched it to create two smaller compartments.
The rabbit fur is super nice on cold fingers. These two small pockets now hold my phone and a knife or multitool. I also stitched in a leather loop with a D-ring, which holds my keys in place with a carabiner.

Step 4 – Waist Drawstring

Another idea that came during the build: I sewed a strip of edge binding all the way around the waist and ran a length of paracord through it.
Most of the time, I don’t cinch it tight, but when it’s really cold, it’s nice to be able to seal out the wind.

I also added eyelets to the sides so that the anorak can be laced shut along the sides with a bit of cord—helpful in winter to close it an extra 15 cm on each side.

Step 5 – Cuffs

The sleeves felt a little too open. So I used some small leftover pieces, cut them into trapezoid shapes, and sewed them in as adjustable cuffs.
They tighten with a drawstring, which adds a bit of length and helps seal around the wrists—while keeping the sleeves comfortably wide.

Step 6 – Small Pockets

The anorak was basically done, but I still had some fabric scraps left. So I made a couple of small front pockets.
They sit just below the belt line. My work belt fits above the small pockets but below the chest pocket.

These little pockets turned out perfect for holding gloves and wrist warmers.
There’s also a ring sewn into the side of the anorak—great for clipping on my heavy leather gloves. Thin liner gloves fit perfectly in the small pockets.

Later improvements done
After a year or so I stitch all the edges, some had begone to fray a bit. Next anorak - do it right from the start.

I also added a large butt pouch, it's great with the extra layer sitting on moist ground, and it holds my shemagh.

If this (when this) dies some day. I'll spend the cash and buy a thick merino blanket or german army blanket (the one I sleep with outside) and make a new from that.

- Original post from Rosentjorn Blog, modified for Reddit.

This is the myogtutorials.com (Prickly Gorse) saddelbag. It's the first time I've printed a pattern and followed a set of instructions. It has been fun to make something designed by a professional, and it really puts my own work into perspective, very inspiring.

I printed the pattern on a4 sheets and taped them together before cutting them out. The instructions have been easy to follow, and I think the project itself is actually pretty manageable even for someone without loads of experience. The hardest part is definitely the bulk of the layers at some of the seams, but I'm fortunate to have an industrial walking foot machine and it handled it all very well.

The bag itself is very nice. It's well proportioned, solid, and seems practical and useful. Because of its height, it's not a good fit for my Carradice Bagman Sport bag support, but I think the Expedition version would work. Otherwise it can also be mounted on the handlebars.

I added the d-rings on the lid, and left out the d-rings at the side for the carrying strap, but that's the only changes to the pattern I've made.

The materials I've used are

- olive 500d Cordura

- 5 color flecktarn 500d Cordura

- brick red EPX200

- black 210d gridstop

- silver bullet RBC200

- 1 mm hdpe sheet

- 25 mm polyamid webbing, buckles and d-rings

It's the most advanced project I've ever sewn, and I'm quite happy with the result.

Seems like this type of pad is going out of style -- hard to find for sale anywhere. Bit of a tricky project but I'm happy with these. They weigh about 16 oz each with no foam cutouts and heavy, 70d fabric. Hoping the next version is more like 10-11 oz.

Took some time away from the machines for reasons. But a new bike inspired me to punch some new fun things out. Got a little rusty to be sure. But this will be a nice prototype for the beginning of a set for my new ride. The next will be direct mount, I’ll ride with this one to see how it works. Hope everyone is making cool things :)

Just finished my first MYOG backpack. Based on the Prickly Gorse 25L pattern that I adapted to my needs.

Pack will be used for skitour, climbing and paragliding.

The pattern is super easy to follow with many options to choose from. I went the no-nosense route by deleting most of the pockets.

I tried a more "trail running" style sternum clip with sewn in cord and specific clips. The pack is well held in place with this solution.

My only complaint is that the shoulder straps are too tiny for me (1m82, 68kg). They don't wrap around low enough and the bottle are located too high up. Something to fix on my next try :) !

The finished pack weights in at just 270gr.

Fabric is UltraWeave 200x from MYOG UK.

Still have to make the belt, and finish a few other details, but I’m happy with it so far. This one is about 55L and made mostly with EcoPak 200 for the exterior and Hex70 for the interior.

I’m playing around with different designs for the next pack already. This one feels a little too simple. Tell what you love and hate!

Just finished my front rack bag prototype.

It was supposed to be just a test for measurements and all but my wife did like it so much she wanted it on her bike.

As it was just a prototype I didn't add any stiffener in the bottom part so I had to add this in on the go. For the standing panels it just added some 25mm webbing. For the base I used some plexiglass I still had laying around. Added some double sided tape on the plexiglass and some elastic strips to the fabric so it sits nicely around the plexiglass.

Measurements are great but for the final version I will change the closure to go over the rolltop portion instead of being part of it.

The bag is easily detachable via 2 ladder locks on the sides to be carried around.

Base is 35x40cm height is ~47cm

Been working on a new anorak pattern, here’s an initial version I’m pretty happy with. It has raglan sleeves and a big secure kangaroo pocket up front, with hand pockets behind. It’s self packable in the pouch and would want a reversible zipper slider, although I don’t have any on hand. The three-piece hood has great peripheral vision and sits nicely over brow without feeling bulky. I want to raise the neckline a little and improve the hood facing on my next revision.

The fit is intentionally oversized and heavily inspired by vintage L.L. Bean anoraks which are available again. On Instagram, I see a Japanese maker doing similar and wish I could get the grid fabric they use. The shock cord around waist cinches it for a bloused look and keeps it up around my waist which I dig. This was made with kimono sleeves which give a lot of room in the arms but I’ll raise the scye drop a little bit, giving more range of motion.

I’ve been testing it in taslan fabric and it really suits the loose fit. It’s airy and lightweight while also feeling substantial and durable. I think the fit makes this really versatile. Any fabric would work with this such as waxed canvas, WPB fabric, ultralight or fleece. I look forward to trying one in active insulation like Polartec Power Grid to see how it performs as a lightweight outer layer for XC skiing if next season sees more snow.

Curious your thoughts on ideal fabric for Anorak jacket like this?

A ventile shell jacket made of EtaProof 200, following Shelby Outdoor's Abisko pattern. Great fabric and really nice pattern. I changed the pit vents a little bit and added panels on the front pockets to hide the zippers.

My only complaint about the pattern is that it is quite narrow on the body. I made this one XL which was the biggest size and unfortunately for me at least it doesn't leave enough room for proper winter layering. Should have thought about this before cutting the fabric.. Sleeves are roomy and the length is good though.

I'm considering making another jacket like this in brown/green for hunting and then I would make it a bit wider. Maybe for that purpose I would also add large hand pockets on the front. Only problem is that ventile fabrics are quite expensive.. For this jacket I had great luck, bought 3 meters of the fabric for 40 euros (second hand, somebody didn't finish their project).

Overall, I'm very happy with the project!

This is a massive pack. At 90L before accounting for roll top storage, it is designed to carry a heavy load and stay tolerable on long portages; some up to 5km in Canada. For those who have paddled before, this pack probably looks tall. It is, but I haven't found the height hinders carrying the boat at all.

My main goals were to provide plenty of attachment points for gear like a PFD or paddle, keep the pack reasonably water resistant, and maximize internal volume. I think I managed all three.

The body is XPac, the bottom panel is Ultra 200 with a PSA nylon inner layer from Challenge Fabrics, and the accent material is Venom Gridstop. The lash tabs and roll top stiffener are Hypalon. All the fabric came from Ripstop by the Roll, mostly out of one of their grab bags.

For the pack frame I went with a "X" design and used Ash wooden stays. I also have a 4# xlpe foam sheet behind the stays.

I haven't decided whether to make a tump line or a hip belt; maybe I'll just make both.

• 16"h x 9"w x 13"tall
• 5 oz/yd 1970s Hobie Cat sailcloth for main body
• 1.6 oz HyperD PU4000 bag liner
• 200D Ecopak EXP200 bottom
• seatbelt webbing for straps
• Mara 50 thread in grey and black

I need to shorten the support rods so the nose isnt so high.

Was running some errands in the rain today and annoyed about my butt being wet every time i got back on my bike, so I decided to solve that problem. Had some leftover ripstop lying around so I threw together a quick little rain cover for my seat. The shock cord that goes around the edge is sewn directly to a little pouch that straps onto the bottom front of the seat. That way it's always attached to my bike and there if I need it!

1.3, 0.8oz DCF. 99% Bonding

580(exclude Pole)

800(include Pole)

in summer South Korea 40℃

winter -25℃

So i will use this winter shelter, summet tent(attach inner tent)

Made an A-frame bug bivy to go with my borah solo tarp. Not perfect, but I’m happy with how it turned out! It’ll come in handy for early summer buggy evenings in the Sierra. Floor is .93ozsqyd silpoly membrane, mesh is .67ozsqyd, #5 zipper with 2 pulls (really just needed 1), and the mesh reinforcement/ridgeline is 3/8in grosgrain. Total weight with guylines is right around 6oz! Stoked.

Still obsessed with turning retired climbing rope into belts. Here's exactly how I do it:

1) Get some rope

Climbing gyms are sitting on piles of the stuff. Ask nicely and they'll usually hand it over or sell it to you very cheaply. Using your old rope is even better.

2) Wash it

It is usually disgusting. The water turns black. Just trust the process. Top loading washing machine is easiest, or a tub of warm soapy water with a rope brush if you don't have one. Rope brushes are cheap on Amazon. Dry it fully before doing anything else.

3) Cut to length

Measure for your waist and cut it down. Pretty self-explanatory.

4) Pull the core out

Grab pliers, grab the core at one end, and pull. Most of the time, this is satisfying and easy. Static ropes are really annoying and will test your patience. Once it's out, the sheath flattens into a webbing material and it already kind of looks like a belt.

5) Sew it together

Zigzag stitch down the full length with the two flattened pieces together. I started on a Singer Heavy Duty, which works great for this step.

6) Seal the ends

Lighter works fine. Hot knife is cleaner if you have one.

7) Attach the buckle (Hardest Part)

This is the hard part. Pick your buckle style, D-rings or a frame buckle, wrap the end around it and sew through all the layers. It's thick so your machine will feel it. If you're going to upgrade anything, get a machine with higher foot clearance. Makes this step a lot less painful.

Burn off the thread ends and you're done.

I think retired rope deserves better than a landfill. Happy to answer any questions below.

I made this fun triangle bag from a burlap rice bag. It's backed with duck canvas that I already had.

The pattern is the Triangle Bag from Tytka Studio. It was pretty easy to follow, but I did make some minor changes.

A little progress video on my latest fanny pack project - and my second fanny pack build so far.

Now with a full hi-vis 235 dtex interior and an outer shell in Ranger Green 560 dtex Invista Cordura.

There’s definitely a steep learning curve when sewing gear, but I’m learning a little every time. A Bosch hot glue pen for temporarily holding the fabric together makes it 100 times easier.

Main inspiration comes from HPG, Kukkaru, and the color scheme is heavily inspired by Kifaru.

(Haven't figured it out yet, but I'm proud of the stuff I've made)

Haven’t used a sewing machine since I was a kid, but got inspired by this subreddit! Put in the time over the past month and really like how they came out. Xpac materials with a sew in interface on the sides of the frame bags for added structure. The dry bags might be my favorite. Seam sealed with seam tape.

Just finished this pair of jeans using the Quadra pattern by Thread Theory. Great pattern, good directions. No sew-along video, but they have a pretty detailed series of blog posts that helped me through the tricky parts. I'm really excited to wear these to the office tomorrow!

I'm working through the beginner progression on LearnMYOG and made this dopp kit after making a few zip pouches and stuffsacks. I wanted the contrasting thread for the color combo but recognize that it shows all my mistakes. Some new skills on this project: sewing stretch fabrics, sewing incredibly slippery fabrics (1.1 oz silpoly), making bartacks, sewing through multiple layers.

I should have tried to press the HyperD material before starting!

I wasn't expecting how sheer the 1.1 oz silpoly would be - it shows the layers within the seam allowance behind it.

I'm not actually sure I need all of the internal pockets but making them was great practice. Now I have a functional piece of gear that I can use and actually really needed.

I had a friend ask if I do bicycle handlebar bags. She’s racing SBT gravel in a few months, so how could I say no?? Whipped up a prototype, and then a production version based on lessons learned. Really happy with how it turned out!

EcoPack 400 for outer fabric, HyperD300 for liner. Walmart cutting mat for stiffener after finding out my usual 1/16” plastic is far too rigid to insert into the bag.

I wanted a reasonably ultralight oblong or rectangular frying pan for small mountain trout.

Most of the pans I’ve seen are round or they’re not very long and the 8+ inch round ones tend to be heavy-ish.

I made this one out of a Nordicware aluminum bread pan. I cut the top off and used a strip of the remaining top to create a handle with a small wood rod that I had laying around. The entire thing weighs about 4 1/2 ounces with the handle.

It is 8 1/2 inches long and 5 inches wide. The handle is removable.

!!! PLEASE NOTE It has been pointed out to me that this is unsafe and is an entanglement hazard as is. I plan to lower the COG and add lower connection points to prevent it from flipping over my head, and will only use on flat calm water where tipping the boat is not likely. DO NOT MAKE THIS AS IS FOR YOUR OWN USE, I AM JUST A DUFUS WHO LIKES TO PADDLE, NOT A QUALIFIED WATER-SCIENTIST. !!!

Started using hydration bladders when hiking, and went to use one while kayaking, and it was awkward, with a separate bag and a long tube. I was worried about a tangle hazard in addition to it being cumbersome.

Came up with this bag to hang in the back of the PFD to hold the bladder, with zipper access and a tube passageway. It’s way more streamlined, and seems safer.

Made with 210D Venom Gridstop. “Insulated” with Reflectix. Not sure how much good it’ll do thermally on the inside, but it ads a nice structure and perhaps a minimal amount of buoyancy?

Using g-clips to attach to the shoulder straps, and an elastic band attached with g-clips to hold the bottom secure. Reflective strip on the back to increase visibility.

Included a pic of it inside out, because preparing and installing the binding took like 1/4 of the time of the project, which is crazy for something that will mostly not be seen. 🤣

Finished with a pic of funny birds from a paddle this week.

Just in time for spring, I finished my second backpack. The goal was 3lbs with the frame, but I went with some thinner spandex for all of the outer pockets just because I like it's stretch, and I used some 1000D cordura on the bottom and back panel for some added strength. The rest is XPAC V15. Ended up being about 3.5lbs with the frame. I can still drill some holes into the frame sheet though to save some weight. Total capacity should be about 50l all the way up to 65l. I'm not super happy with the hip belt, so I will likely remake that after I do the first test.

I have those little grapple hooks I 3d printed that will help me add straps to all of the little black loops when needed, or if I want to make any accessories.

The two side pockets have a quick access spot in the bottom corner, and underneath the bottom panel is a map pocket.

Pretty fun project, I don't think I'll ever enjoy making the shoulder straps, such a pain.

Adapted the Prickly Gorse fanny pack pattern to covert from a fanny pack to a bike handlebar bag.

Added a retractable key ring behind the back panel padding for easy access to my work badge and keys so I don’t have to dig around for them.

Stitched the MN state flag into the back panel for a little hometown flare.

Used X-PAC RX30 fabric in Goldenrod and Slate.

Made this for a friend, who bought a new tool.

hey guys, I have been lurking on here looking at all your wonderful projects and I decided to have a go at making a frame bag (to match my other bags I bought) I created the templates from scratch and it's holding up quite well!

I made a few mistakes that I've learnt from, and I'm looking forward to starting another project. I went to my local scrapstore and picked up a load of fabric including huge offcuts of ripstop donated by a local hot air balloon company.

Newest addition to the collection. Based off of hyperlite ice pack. Left to right is order I made them in.

Back is padded and has spot for removable hip belt, ice axes, crampons, and extra attachment points.

Made with xpac VX21 and Hyper D 300

Frame bag has a removable divider in the main compartment and a large seperate pocket on the non drive side with mesh pockets at the top. Foam lined around the edges to prevent rattles on the frame. Top tube bag has interfacing in side panels to create a firm structure. Made with X-Pac VX21 & X11.

For a few years my friends and I have woken up and wondered whether it was colder than expected, or if we all need warmer sleeping bags. So I made Temperatus!

I wanted to make MY perfect version of this, which is:

• Battery Life: More than 2 years, user replaceable CR1216 (More than 4 years if less sampling)
• Temperature: -30C to 70C (-22F to 158F), 0.1C accuracy with no calibration
• Button resettable MIN/MAX tracking, with last hour trend (The up/down/flat arrow)
• Sampling: Checks the temp every 2mins, (4 year battery with 10mins).
• You can force a fresh measurement by long pressing the button.
• Weight: <3.5g (1/8oz) with a battery installed
• Size: 35x15x4mm (1.38x0.59x0.16in)

I've been pretty happy with it for the past few months, though it took me 5 PCB and 10 case revisions to get it to the point where I am happy to call it done. Now I need to find something lighter than the S-Biner because that's heavier than the sensor itself. I have also found I can fit a CR1220 in this case to add another year to the runtime.

It is confirmed that my friends vastly exagerate how cold it is most of the time :D

My first project, for the most part: A pair of sling hiking bags for my boys.

The bottle holder seems a bit too short to be useful, so for the second one I just added some webbing instead.

But what good is webbing and D rings and such without something to put on them, so I made a molle'ish pouch, and a little coin purse to put on them and make each one a bit more unique.

Bonus pic of the 35ish year old middle school Home Economics sewing machine I used, in case anyone gets a kick out of it. Complete with scratched on graffiti

I just learned about this sub and am loving everyone’s creations! I thought you might be interested to see a backpack I made for myself last year.

I’m an amateur leatherworker with a bad upper back and a job that requires business formal attire and commuting with heavy stuff. A few years “back,” I bought an internal frame daypack that did wonders to alleviate my back pain, but it is far too casual for my job. I looked for a non-athletic-style internal frame backpack and came up with nothing, so I decided to stretch the limits of my pattern design and hardware integration skills and make my own.

It keeps the weight off my shoulders as well as my store-bought athletic pack, and I absolutely love it! I’ve had it for about a year, and as with all veg tan leather goods, it’s improving with age. I made a pattern based off of the rough dimensions of my athletic daypack and used the cheapest 4oz hide I could find to make it (check out the hole I patched in the back and the blemishes throughout - personally, I’m a fan of the character they add). After about 3 months, the shoulder and hip straps started to really mold to my body shape. The internal frame posed a design challenge. After experimenting with a few materials like wood and heat-moldable plastic, I went with some steel shims I found at the hardware store, and they’ve held a curved shape very well.

I look forward to seeing how the pack ages and hopefully making another version in a few years as my leatherworking skills improve. Thanks for sharing your ideas and gear!

I think that I've finally found a relatively comfortable way to make the stuff I wanna make, albeit with boxed corners, but alas: A boxy bag assembled from loose parts!

I always really liked the general ease of assembly that boxy bags bring with them, but they're hard on material as there's quite a bit of waste when cut and anything bigger than a 6 x 6 x 12 cm pouch (item pictured) can't be lasered in one piece like they're usually done - at least not by me.

I've been very pleased by how smooth the assembly went, but it wasn't perfect: have you ever felt that something was going \*too\* well? like, \*zero\* headaches?

Well this was such an event and although it's not all that visible, I've added one seam allowance too much along the zipper's sides, thereby making the general mid a whopping \~ 16 mm wider than the bottom.

It's still functional but that will be corrected in future versions.

Anyways, I'm planning on making a backpack from this design and hope that the corners won't make the thing look too amateurish, but that's what I'm able to do for now.

Ok ok I started it a few days before, but didn't finish until the night before. Straight into a four day bikepack with a 3L water carry for some stretches. Lace-up and hook and loop to secure to the frame. Measured the lower down tube one wrong, but everything else was so secure that it didn't matter. Main pocket driveside, flat/map pocket full non-driveside.

EDIT: Pattern is now posted on the portfolio site. Its not as user friendly as some of my others so if you have questions feel free to ask! tag me if you make one i'd love to see what people do

Just finished up this sling bag.

I wanted a simple ish sling bag that I could use to incentivize myself to bring my camera out with me more.

I used some scrap materials I got from some friends that run a bag and soft goods production shop localy, shoutout to stitchtech! If anyone needs production work they are awesome to work with.

Not a super inspired design to be honest, but some may find it interesting!

If anyone wants the pattern I can send it over feel free to ask.

Materials (I think, not totally sure lol)

- Challenge ultra black and grey for the side panel

- some duck canvas xpac (I reversed it to have the lamination on the outside)

- high density closed cell foam for panels surrounding the camera center pocket

- Calfskin leather I got in a FB marketplace haul for super cheap a while back

- Mil spec webbing from Jontay webbing

- Metal slider from Jontay webbing

- Mil spec 1" grossgrain for binding

- ykk #5 for zippers and reverse coil pulls

- Scrap paracord and heat shrink for the pulls

- Fidlock retractable snap medium male x2 from a+ fasteners

- Fidlock snap medium push style (allows for 360 movement vs most snap females that are a directional lock) from a+ fasteners

For a but more of a detailed breakdown about design decisions feel free to check out my portfolio post https://ethancusick.com/sling-bag-v1

I thought right. I made the panels out of 1/2" plywood and put box joint teeth on the four walls (so they could be assembled inside the material easier once I flipped it right side out)

I tried a couple different fabrics but landed on this Cordura from RSBTR.

my favorite little touches include: -Extendable shock cord on the inside pocket so I can dig around easier -shock cord tape holder - emt conduit handle -offset rows of webbing for the screwdriver side for maximum capacity

There are so many imperfections (material too wide on inside panels, janky hem stitches, weird corners, leftover chalk marks) but I don't care. I love it so much

here's a backpack I made for the commute to and from work. it's inspired from a painting by Piet Mondrian. I work as a chef, so I don't need to get into the front pockets often. it's big enough for an apron, chef coat, and the occasional jacket. the water bottle holder I made big enough to tote around 32oz deli containers or the occasional bottle of wine. The front pockets are bigger than they look and run horizontally across the top and bottom of the front panel. I've been using it for about 4 months now, and I wouldn't change a thing. it took me about a week from design to product. (mostly winging it 😂)

Been hunting for a heavier duty wakking foot industrial for my leatherworking. Got home at 4am after a weekend of vending, had quick peek on the FB market and found one well below market price. Snatched it up before noon same day. Juki 1541s' and consew 206's are out there, stay vigilant and you'll find yours!

I've loved having a tiny notebook in my pocket but I wanted to be able to bring along some colors easily too! I sketched this up, drafted the pattern, and hand stitched everything together in a couple days to have it done before an event. Super happy with the result, though I'm already thinking about the next version...

Here’s some pictures of canvas jackets I’ve been working on. The one with the green lining is waxed and the flannel one is not. List of stuff that helped me out down below.

Pattern: modified McCalls M7638

Sew along video guide to make sure I joined lining and shell correctly: https://youtu.be/0KarqeY4cao?si=5zpMn6dUIU3aKsO6

Sleeve guide: https://youtu.be/agFB5lmlEN4?si=1av6dZ4MUc0nmnz-

(This video helped tremendously)

Jacket I used as reference: https://roark.com/products/open-roads-waxed-canvas-jacket-otter

I’ve been carrying these Bifold Wallets for many months now and really like this minimalist, front pocket carry style. I tailored the pattern for three precise sizes: 4, 6, or 8 card carry. It’s a single fabric panel that’s folded and laminated with spray adhesive, minimizing bulk and raw edges. Two rows of stitching secure the card pockets. Coated or laminated pack fabrics ranging from 200d to 500d work great!

I’ve made these in the past with heat bonding, similar to my article https://learnmyog.com/articles/bondedSeams.html, however I like spray adhesive as it works great with fabric coatings and doesn’t require heat.

If you’re interested in making a few, the pattern is available now on my website. https://learnmyog.com/bifoldWallet.html

☝️ It’s free behind an email sign-up. I’m building a contact list as alternative to algorithm based social media.

Started sewing recently, so I’m overall happy with this first backpack. I had a tough time sewing the boxed bottom to the tube, especially sewing the nylon straps into the seam. (Very tight turns. Bent or snapped 6 needles in 30ish minutes)

Took a lot of design inspo from the HMG Summit 30, but made larger for my larger frame. Came in 0.96lb!

Would anyone suggest doing the bottom differently? Perhaps just cutting notches out of the main body, to make boxed corner?

Also, any other feedback or suggestions are SUPER appreciated!

Made a canvas jacket based off of a design by the company Roark. My first time sewing a piece of clothing. Let me know what you guys think!

Here is a list of resources that helped me out!

Pattern: McCalls M7638 (modified my cut fabric to match the look I was going for)

Sew along video guide to make sure I joined lining and shell correctly: https://youtu.be/0KarqeY4cao?si=5zpMn6dUIU3aKsO6

Sleeve guide: https://youtu.be/agFB5lmlEN4?si=1av6dZ4MUc0nmnz-

(This video helped tremendously)

Jacket I used as reference: https://roark.com/products/open-roads-waxed-canvas-jacket-otter?currency=USD&variant=41777084858439&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&stkn=e4c5ec8229d0&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17067150898&gbraid=0AAAAADi7Q04nfGjyYNxSgctkEbEMQswvu&gclid=CjwKCAjwyMnNBhBNEiwA-Kcgu0MeeKtYR9TSUvFkDoCmDnZuDhn0Hqm5piKgRpFrbvgJ8AOLGEF2GhoCbhEQAvD_BwE

Hi all!!

I’m very new to sewing projects, just started a few weeks ago and having a lot of fun. It’s a very nice distraction from work, and I have a ton to learn.

That said, this is my first successful wearable object, Green Pepper unlined anorak jacket with modifications, all cotton duck. I plan on waxing it soon, just haven’t studied to process enough yet. I spend a lot of my day job in an aerial lift (spring/summer/fall), so I wanted something wind blocking with a good belly/chest pocket for quick access that’s not blocked by a harness. I was worried I wouldn’t be able to do the zipper very well, but all 3 are fully functional and feel strong, easy sliding too. Underarm zips for venting are amazing, wish all jackets had this.

One modification I made (unseen in video) is the divider in the chest pocket. I didn’t like the idea of a dump pocket where it all falls to the bottom, this way objects sit closer to the body while active.

The other modification I made was the back pockets, similar to a hunting jacket or cycling jersey. Fully admit this was not as successful as I’d like. I think the pocket needs to be much deeper, a lot was cropped in folding the bottom of the jacket. Next time I’ll slide it farther up and hope out doesn’t somehow interfere with the vent zippers.

Anyways, I’m amazed to be daily wearing something I made with my hands, and most of the materials in it are natural, how nice.

Hi, I made this backpack :)

Full album with photos and details on the build process

Photos of the pack in action on my 2025 JMT thru

I have a Palante V2, which I love, but wanted something bigger while avoiding the extra weight that would come with the Desert Pack. I was inspired by all the MYOG content I consume, and though I'd never made a pack before, decided to cook up my dream bag for myself. I was definitely intimidated, and doubted myself many times throughout the process, but it all came together (by luck, or my skill, I'm not sure). Thanks for taking a look!

Specs:

• Volume: 48L (with roll-top collar extended)
• Torso length: 20"
• Weight: 16.97 oz (17.5 oz with optional Y-strap)
• Pattern: slightly modified version of the Prickly Gorse 40L frameless pack (praise be)

Features:

• A unique load stabilization system that I emulated from the Yama Gear Shrike. This design integrates a pair of load lifters into the pack's top-closure system via a y-strap and some hardware that allows weight transfer on and off the shoulder straps by adjusting a ladder lock. Rather than pulling on an internal frame like traditional load lifters do, these instead pull on the entire pack.
• An simple under-arm trekking pole stowing system made of shock cord and grommets that I emulated from the Rab Veil (pictured with my 3.9 oz MYOG carbon Z-poles!)
• Webbing length for top-mounting a bear can
• Lunch bag closure design
• Top-strap closure in two modes; Y-strap load stabilization or haul loop closure
• Palante-style bottom pocket with garbage chute, and Palante-style front pocket with hidden stake compartment
• Sternum strap with Palante-style hidden daisy chains
• Stretch mesh shoulder pockets for a phone, camera, 500-700ml Smartwater
• 1.5-inch webbing hipbelt
• Fully seam-taped
• A dope patch from Rachel Pohl/NoSo

Impressions:

• The Prickly Gorse pattern and instructions are excellent, and I'm very grateful to have had them
• The load stabilization system is definitely effective, and does create a notable stabilizing effect. Although they have a lot more "give" than real load lifters, since tensioning them simultaneously pulls and deforms the pack. Overall I was happy with them on the JMT.
• I'm mostly happy with the shoulder pockets, but I wish I made them deeper.
• The Ultra X fabric performed great, and I notice no delamination of the fabric or seam tape after the pack's first 280 miles
• The trekking pole stow system is nice, since I can access them or stow them easily on-the-go, but it's more finicky than I'd like. Something more to grab onto, like larger cord locks, might help.
• I freaking love the lunch-bag style closure. Putting the buckles on the exterior seems crazy to me now.
• 10mm foam for the shoulder straps performed perfectly well, but I probably could have done with a bit thinner.
• I should have tensioned all of my flat elastic more before sewing. The opening-edge of both the front and bottom pockets are already loose. This is my only real regret with the project.
• Overall, super stoked :)

Materials are from a variety of vendors; RSBTS, Seattle Fabrics, RockyWoods, Dutchware, Litesmith, Palante, Brautigam, Zpacks, Amazon... all parts are linked below:

Fabrics:

Body:

• Ultra 200X (3.8 osy; lower back panel, bottom panel)
• Ultra 100X (3.3 osy; upper back panel, front panel)
• 100D Robic Ripstop Nylon (3.7 osy; side pockets)
• Venom UL Stretch Mesh ECO (5.1 osy; front and bottom pockets)

Straps

• Ultra 200X (3.8 osy; exterior strap face)
• 1/8" 3D spacer mesh (10 osy; strap backing)
• Venom UL Stretch Mesh ECO (5.1 osy; shoulder pockets)
• Lycra PowerMesh (5.1 osy; small accessory pocket)
• 10mm EV50 foam from Nunatak (padding)

Notions:

Webbing:

• 5/8" X630 nylon webbing (haul loop, top strap, shoulder strap lower webbing)
• 1.5" nylon webbing (hip belt)
• 10mm nylon webbing (sternum strap daisy chain, load lifter attachment loops; repurposed from [spare Yama parts](https://yamamountaingear.com/products/load-stabilizers))

Flat Elastic:

• 3/4" flat elastic (front stretch pocket top edge, shoulder strap pocket top edge, bottom pocket and garbage chute edges)

Grosgrain:

• 1/2" grosgrain (side pocket shock cord mounting points, roll top buckle mounting points, roll top edge binding)

Shock cord:

• 2.4mm reflective orange shock cord (side compression)
• 3/32" black shock cord (side pocket closure)
• 1/16" black shock cord (trekking pole attachment points)

Seam tape:

• 1.25" UltraTNT PSA tape (cut to width as needed)

Hardware:

• Pack closure: 5/8" Titanium Top-strap G-hook
• Rolltop closure: 3/8" plastic buckle
• Hip belt: Palante hip belt buckle (~1.5")
• Sternum strap: Palante sternum strap
• Y-strap/load stabilizer system: Yama "Style A" Shrike Y-Strap
• Shoulder strap adjustment: 5/8" single-sided ladder locks
• Eyelets/grommets: Don't remember literally any info, but they were from Amazon (side pocket drain holes, trekking pole mounting points)
• Cord locks and tensioners:
  • LineLoc Hook (side compression)
  • Nexus GTSP style anchorable cord lock w/ 0.28" anchor opening
  • Glow-in-the-dark 3.4mm anchorable cord lock (trekking pole mounts)

A while back, I made an ultralight camping chair, but the seat was only rudimentary due to a lack of sewing skills and knowledge of materials.

So now I revisited the seat with some little changes in design and materials. The main fabric is now a 56gsm double ripstop instead of a regular one, and I added 34gsm 20d monofil ripstop as mesh for the side panels for breathability which improved comfortableness significantly. Also, I used nylon webbing and bias tape instead of polyester and Ultragrid for reinforcement instead of significantly heavier cordura.

That way, I was able to shave off 40 grams, which brings the overall packed weight went down to 545g and therefore closer to the goal of a lighter chair than the chair zero.

For those who wanted to know about how strong the Monofil is, I can say that it’s doing a great job! It’s not load bearing, but it’s still under high tension. Time will tell how it will perform when used repeatedly, but I’m optimistic about it.

These are made from a mix of traditional, natural materials. The outer shell is seal, which handles wind really well and sheds moisture better than most hides. The main structure is moose hide, usually in that mid-weight range, so it’s thick enough to be durable but still workable when sewing.

They’re stitched with sinew, which I like for how strong it is and how it tightens up in the cold instead of loosening off like some threads can. It also just fits the whole build better than modern synthetics for this kind of work.

Inside, they’re lined with shearling, so you’ve got the wool still attached to the hide. That gives a lot of warmth without needing extra layers, and it stays comfortable even if you’re out in real cold for a while.

Overall it’s a pretty simple build material-wise, but everything’s chosen for function—warmth, durability, and how it holds up in actual winter conditions.

If you haven't used the Prickly Gorse patterns and instructions from www.myogtutorials.com, I highly recommend them. Perfedt for an ameratur MYOGer like myself, thank you sir! I finished this project at the end of last week, and took it for a test drive on the Eagle Rock Loop in the Ouachita Mountains over the weekend. I made a few modifications to the original patern, and was pleased with most of them.

Changes: I decided to go with removable straps, just because I want to try several different styles (vest, S-style, etc.) before I make the next bag. I added a zippered access to an interior pocket above the exterior pocket. I added a different type top closure that I had previously seen on this Reddit (sorry I can't remember who to give credit to). I went with the coroplast (yard sign plastic) for the frame sheet with a bent aluminum tube frame, with some 3D printed connectors. I also decided to add the Luna air mesh panel for some back ventilation. My torso is 20", and the panel fits perfectly! 👌

Things that worked: I was really happy with the bend of the frame and the addition of the Luna air mesh back pad. The frame fit my profile well, and it had enough of a bend to keep the middle part of the bag off of my back, and with the addition of the Luna panel back-sweat was not a problem. This was my first project using the 210D Venom Gridstop Eco and Venom Stetch Mesh ECO Max. Both we're fantastic to work with, and seem bomber!

Things that need some adjustments: With this type of center-closer for the bag and a long torso, I would like to add about 6" of material to the overal length. There's not quite enough material to get a good seal when folded over to make me comfortable for rainy conditions. The removable straps are kind of "floppy" when your putting the bag on. I expected this, and this bag is just an experiment, but I wouldn't want them on a thru-hiking pack. The only other thing that is annoying is the hipbelt has a "scrunchy" sound when walking? I think this is from the the 210D face fabric rubbing against the foam I used?

Anyway, sorry this got long winded, feel free to roast away! Tell me what all I screwed up, and what to do different next time.

Couldn't figure out to hide all the seams on the inside, now it works - thanks to you guys. But its still a pain to get the binding attached with a regular machine. maybe i just have to use a easier pattern and live with the seams on the inside :)