Since an original Sailrite was a bit too expensive for me, I bought a Sailrite clone from China and decided to modify it. First, I machined a custom steel Monster Wheel on a lathe. It weighs just under 4 kg (about 8.8 lbs).
Next, I installed a new 180 W servo motor and fabricated a custom steel motor mount for it.
I also designed and built an Arduino-based motor controller. I 3D-printed a mounting bracket for the electronics as well as an enclosure for the entire controller. On top of that, I made a few other modifications to the machine, including a 3D-printed housing for the stitch-length adjustment mechanism. Finally, I built a case to make the whole setup reasonably portable. There was quite a bit of machining, electronics work and 3D printing involved, but it was a fun project!

DCF 2.9oz fabric, ykk recoil zippers, zotefoam padding, tweave durastretch in three pieces back padding and beneath the shoulder strap and also for the water bottle, fidlock sternum strap. carrying my macbook and whatever to work.

is indeed my most boring bag, the goal is to blend in, and i think this bag did a pretty good job at it.

this bag is inspired by lbt8005 and the idea of making a clamshell version of it, with some preference of my own(or rather, learned from other great bag design), i did apply for a patent of it, not sure what to do from there.

My original plan was to make a "side car" for one of the vestibules, but my dog likes to sprawl out when sleeps, so I made a larger inner instead. The layout is similar to an X-Dome 1+ with the inner expanding to fill one of the vestibules. There is a velcro opening in one of the end panels for the pole to pass through and a reinforcement patch where the handle of the pole sits on the floor. I used 1.6 oz HyperD PU4000 for the floor to provide extra protection from my dog's nails and 0.67 oz noseeum for the walls. Total weight is ~475g after seam taping.

We used it for the first time on a 6 day trip a few weeks ago and it provided ample room for the two of us. For reference my dog is 65lbs and quite long. In hindsight, I could have saved some weight and gone with a lighter fabric for the floor because the Thinlight pad my dog sleeps on doubles as floor protection.

On a side note, I have one of the original Drop branded tents and it uses YKK LB-RC 15mm side release buckles to clip the inner tent to the fly at the peaks. If anyone has suggestions for where I could source them (I'm in Canada) or for a buckle that might be compatible I would appreciate it.

(Dog tax included at the end.)

Used to sew gear way back in the day, 20 years ago with a sailrite but sold it. Had some ideas, and wanted to get in to some aviation upholstery and MYOG. Juki LU-2828V-7 arrived about a week ago. Absolute work-horse, excited to start working on some ideas but damn am I rusty.

In picture is just a 6x6x12 pouch I made for some day-trip backup clothes. It's terrible but was fun to re-learn a bit.

I recently purchased a bit of Ultra TenX and X-Pac UX10 to play around with.

I really like the color of the TenX. It's very saturated and rich. The TenX is also easier to sew and bind compared to the UX10 because it's a bit stiffer and doesn't crumple quite as easily.

I will say that the UX10 is harder to cut. I found that I could cut the TenX with a razor in one pass. The UX10 took multiple passes... Sometimes 3 or more. The primary fabric of the UX10 cuts easily, but the x-grid just didn't want to cut sometimes.

Both crease easily and permanently.

Anyway... They're both pretty cool fabrics. I whipped up a couple of different wallets, and I'm planning to make a day pack one of these days. I like the red and white and will probably use some combination in the pack.

What other items would make sense to make with this stuff?

Wanted to make something fun for the girls and my nephews, so I made four Halloween bags: Frankenstein, ghost, shadow, and pumpkin! All made from 420D Robic with ripstop and packcloth linings. Getting the gusset measurements right took some trial and error, but digitizing the pattern and following Ryan’s advice to sew with the gusset underneath and the panel on top helped a lot.

My nephews were so pumped—their smiles made all the hard work worth it!

Put my box full of scraps to use and made this laptop sleeve to take on a work trip. Holds a 16 in laptop, an iPad, various cords. This was my first time using Fidlock snaps, what a cool piece of hardware.

This might be my favorite pattern that I've come up with. It comes together relatively easily and the pack is a really nice functional size.

Once I get my new shop up and running, this is going to be the pack that I am going to have students make in the shop for their first project.

I printed it in two pieces to allow it to print flat-ish and take apart for storing, I've seen some other designs for these, but I think I've solved some of the issues like not having a large enough base so they don't tip over

This is based on a pouch I got online for a few dollars, I took that apart and recreated it, but I'd like to make a few of these, so instead of continuing to do front+back+gusset top and bottom, I'm instead doing it with zipworks' pouch pattern generator, adding everything I need to the face, then closing it up.

Certainly a much more fun way to do it, still need to dial in exactly where the seams on the front should be.

Little update the trivet I posted here a while back and got thoroughly roasted for actually sold! I’m genuinely pretty damn happy about it.

And who the hell called it a bottomless ashtray? 😂 If the buyer actually uses it as an ashtray, I might cry…

Had a friend ask me to make (in her words) an adult school bag for the beginning of her term at a music studio she just got into.

Even though she paid for all the materials, she trusted me with the whole design so it was a surprise, and when I brought it to her last night she said it was the coolest thing she owned 🥲 it’s also the most her-thing I can think of, so all-round really proud of the work I did on this bag.

Made some fairly significant changes to my last iteration of this design (a green EPX one I posted here a few weeks ago) including scrapping the laptop compartment, completely redesigning the back panel and inner-back panel organiser, repositioning a few zipper-pockets, and of course committing to an entire weekend of saddle stitching these padded leather straps. Definitely worth it.

The main fabric is a Magenta Dry Oilskin from Merchant & Mills which I lined with Teal Ecopak, using Grape Ultrastretch for the pockets and the last scraps of a Japanese cotton cat print I’ve had knocking around forever. YKK all around with a couple different Fidlock buckles thrown in, and solid Nickel hardware.

The straps and leather accents are Walpier 2.8mm Natural Buttero Italian veg tan from A.A. Crack up in Northampton and I lined the foam pads and back panel with this epic fuchsia Napa (which I used scraps from to make all the external zipper pulls) from the bargain bin at J.T. Batchelor's here in London. They were heavily inspired by Not Less or Equal’s heritage straps that feature on some of their bags. I did find myself referencing a lot to figure out elements of the construction, not having made anything like these before.

All the leather is punched with a 3.38mm French-style chisel and hand-sewn with Xiang Twist .52mm waxed polyester thread. That was a really tough job, especially going through the strap padding which is a beveled, triple-density foam combo of 6mm neoprene, 4mm EPE foam, and 2mm high-density EVA foam (kind of all compresses into about a 1cm stack).

I’m kind of in the habit of writing about this stuff but I’d be interested to know if people like reading about materials etc., or if there are any other parts of the process you’d rather hear about (or not)? Thanks as always!

43cm x 29cm × 18cm
1.5kg, 24L

Hey r/myog! 👋

I design and build mini-scale models of tensile structures, and I'm gearing up to dive fully into MYOG soon. As my designs started scaling up, I quickly ran into the limits of standard desktop vinyl cutters. I needed a way to accurately draft and mark large-scale patterns on paper and fabric without spending thousands on an industrial machine.

To solve this, I designed TexPlot—a 1x1 meter Cartesian CNC platform built on standard 2040 aluminum extrusions and driven by Klipper 3D printer firmware.

Where it’s at right now (v0.1): It is currently configured as a high-speed, high-precision pen plotter. Instead of a bouncy spring-loaded pen, it uses a custom micro-servo actuated rigid mount, which completely eliminates bounce and bleed at high acceleration speeds. It’s perfect for plotting full-scale apparel, pack, or tent patterns directly onto paper or tracing them onto fabric.

The hardware:

• Runs on a repurposed Creality K1 mainboard (though any universal Klipper board works).
• Driven by dual NEMA 17 4260 high-torque motors on the Y-axis to throw the heavy gantry around without losing steps.
• Uses standard OpenBuilds V-wheel plates and 6mm GT2 belts.

Where it’s going & Call for Contributors: This is just the drafting stage. The rigid gantry is specifically overbuilt so that the next versions can support a passive drag-knife, and eventually, a fully automated oscillating tangential blade for slicing through heavy Cordura and canvas.

Because I have some serious time constraints right now, I am actively looking for contributors! If anyone is interested in collaborating on new toolhead designs, testing, or refining the Klipper macros, I would absolutely love the help to push this project forward faster.

This is my very first time sharing a hardware design publicly. The fully documented BOM, 3D printable mounts, and Klipper configs are all free to download here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3391815-texplot-v0-1-1000x1000mm-cnc-plotter

I would absolutely love your feedback. What features, toolheads, or software integrations would you want to see to make a machine like this actually useful for your daily gear making?

For learning and testing patterns.

YKK Vislon #10 zipper ended up with 2 broken teeth. An hour in cad, 13 min on the 3d printer and a half hour sewing and supergluing the thing on. The new teeth are made of TPU. It’s not perfect, but this bag is saved from the landfill.

I finally took the plunge and taught myself some basic sewing skills. Lots of trial and error. Mostly error and seam rippers. I’ve been a thru hiker for a long long time and always liked certain features in different packs. This is a product of all I wanted.
Main body is 35 liters material is TenX
Eco stretch front & side pockets.
Padded running vest straps made from eco stretch 1/8 spacer mesh and 3/8 2# poly foam. The pockets on the vest came from Salvation Army store (place is a gold mine for stretch materials for cheap). Pack came in at 11.9 oz. I’m already planning version 2 that should be a bit lighter.

Just finished this model. I have made few backpacks in this model but smaller in volume. I have carried the orange one(last picture) for 3 4 years in my adventures. Zero complaints but 1, just not enough space, hence this new bigger version. I chose white+orange combo so irs highly visible in nature. Last picture big bro and his lil bro😅

Made a folding cookware stand from scratch (stainless steel)

I work in precision machining, so I had access to a lathe and machining center and figured I’d try making my own trivet/pot stand for solo camping.

Turned some scrap round bar into legs, screwed them into a ring I machined out of a block of 304 stainless. Did a 30-min fire test before trusting it with actual cooking — held up with zero issues, no loosening on the threads even after cooling and reheating a few times.

Currently using it with my mess tin over a small fire pit, works great for boiling water or heating food directly over flame.

Mostly just proud of how it turned out!

Great bag but just too deep/awkward for my kiddos school books.

I bought a BRS 3000T and needed a windshield because these stoves tend to perform way worse in winds above 2 mph.

Flatcat Gear makes great ones, but shipping to Germany costs around $70 for some reason.

So I decided to make my own. My problem was that it's really difficult to attach a windshield to the stove because it's so tiny. My solution was to clip the shield (made from a one-litre beer can) to the TOAKS 750 ml pot I'm using.

So far it works great, and the canister doesn't get too hot. It only weighs 32 g, which is about the same as the Flatcat Gear ones. I could probably trim a bit more material off the top, but for now I'll leave it as it is.

I'm open to suggestions, so let me know if there's anything you'd do differently!

New headphone charging case doesn't have a lid, the earpods just slide up and out. rather than trusting the magnet, I made a lil case.

I often wear just one or the other, so we have zips that close on each side rather than opening from the middle, color matched hang loops are zipper tapes with teeth removed.

Wawak optipop for matched top stitching, lots of fun.

Not sure what the fabric is, came in an RBTR grab bag, it's clearly challenge ultra, but with just a PET backing, no X reinforcement laminated in.

Maybe Lance will see this post and help :)

Headphones are moondrop space travel 2s

As always, shout out to the MYOG discord server. It's tons of fun and now pretty active. https://discord.gg/CruyFfVRVZ

Yes yes, Prickly Gorse does not actually have a 2.5+15L pattern available, I made this bag up as I went, with a few pictures taken but honestly very few notes. 

Back when I was starting my MYOG journey, I printed, taped and laminated the large fanny patch and Summit pack patterns, so while I was proceeding with this project pretty aimlessly, when I cut pattern pieces, I was starting with the MYOG Tutorial pattern pieces as starting points. 

for the point where they connect, I just took the summit pack front panel, overlayed the fannypack panel, and added two seam allowances so that I could sew them together. 

about the pack:

Fanny pack works about how the MYOG Tutorials version does. Same front pocket, with an added pass through zipper that I can "lock" with a mittenhook if I really need, and an attachment point for cinch straps from the wings. 

main body is likewise pretty stitch for stitch from the original pattern, orange ripstop inners for visibility with some stretch pockets and another pass through zipper going back into the body of the bag. 

Bottom of the fannypack has OG venom stretch mesh as a trash pocket which also conceals the webbing ladder used to attach the optional shock cord third strap. Waterbottle sleeve attaches to the bottom with lil olive toggles through cord loops

Wings are entirely freehand and original, which is why they're merely okay. Incredibly comfortable and work perfectly when worn as a fannypack/hip belt, they load a little strangely when worn as a shoulder sling, which I do most of the time. The cinch strap and venom stretch hold the pack to a fairly slim profile when the main pocket isn't filled, but can easily be expanded to hold things like a 1L nalgene. 

back panel is 3d spacer mesh, wrong side out, with orange liner+quilting (is that the term?)

The +15L summit pack is kept intentionally minimalist, it's got a DCF panel where it meets the fannypack, for some minimal structure, but is just a big single zip bag, 210d gridstop back, 1.8oz airwave front. (That's right, more than a hammock fabric)

The fannypack has no structure added, the binding front and back of the backpack to the fannypack panels adds a ton of structural stiffness, and the bag itself pads the back when tucked away. 

Fabric mounted buckles on either side will instead meet the top of the pack when opened, but can easily be switched around to switch which shoulder the bag sits on. 

Backpack portion has a CSM poly + pallet banding horizontal stiffener which is replaceable/removable, but makes the bag look a lot better when opened. 

Full 420° circumferential zipper opens the bag section, was neat figuring out how to sew it. 

Bag isn't bright and shiny in these photos because most of them are after 4 months of daily use + international travel. 

As always, shout out to the MYOG discord server. It's tons of fun and now pretty active. https://discord.gg/CruyFfVRVZ

I’ve been using Challenge RBC fabric to design this bottle holder for canoes recently. Tried it on the water the other weekend and it went great! Stops the annoying inevitable bottle rolling around in the bottom of the boat.

I have an old 60m rope that I want to turn into a rug as a Christmas gift for my parents, but we’re a neurospicy family and I know the texture of hard rope under bare feet would be hard for some of us. I know it’s a pain to take the core out of a rope but I’ve done it before and am willing to do it again if I can figure out the rug part.

I’m wondering if weaving with flat material will mess up the corners? Should I try to weave this as one normally would, or should I sew four strands together and weave them all at once? I’m open to any suggestions anyone might have (and other rectangular-ish patterns if someone has one that would work better coreless!). Thanks!

Hand sewn. Had some old samples from an UK online shop and decided to put them to good use. Looks ratty but does the job. ✨

*My fingers hurt