My beloved Buffalo Jackson wallet my wife got me almost ten years ago finally fell apart. I had put it in storage for sentimental reasons. Today I discovered that a card wallet pattern fits precisely on the foot print of the old leather.

Hello. I do MYOG in South Korea.

My personal goal is to hike the entire Korea Dulle Trail (approx. 4,500km) — I've already completed 1,300km of it in 30 days.

Through long-distance trekking, I’ve learned that lightweight and easily repairable gear is essential. That’s why I mainly work with Dyneema fabric.

I’ve noticed that information on making Dyneema tents is still not as widely shared as for other MYOG projects. To help encourage more builds and discussions, I’d like to share a free pattern for a basic 2-person dome tent that uses two poles.

It’s a simple design, but also one of the most fundamental. Follow me on Instagram @camper_julynight and send me a DM — I’ll send you the file.

Thanks

This was my first time making my own gear and I thought it turned out great! I modeled out the geometry in cad and it translated perfectly, super happy with the outcome

For anyone wondering the purpose, it's so that I can leave my bivy open during rain and not build up a ton of condensation. The bivy is waterproof so I only had to cover the mesh upper.

The bivy is an outdoor research alpine ascent shell

Made my first two backpacks:

- A black one based on the Stitchback pattern, roughly 50L, weighing in at ~670 grams.

- A blue one based on a LearnMYOG pattern, roughly 40L, weighing in at ~600 grams.

Rather than using the frames suggested in the patterns, I made my own ones by bending hardware store aluminium tubes. Worked great!

EDC bag for stuff. Not sure what stuff. But I’ll put stuff in it for sure!

Been throwing the idea around to make some ditty style bags for months and finally dipped into my stock of denim type material and leftover leather scraps.

The first bag with 2 zippers are for pockets that run between the lining and outer layer and a pocket attached to the front. The 5th pic was the pocket idea with the body made from panels which is a hassle to fit a mildly triangular shape over a round bottom. Others were early test runs.

Saving up for that Juki 1541s little by little but in the meantime I bum Tandy Leathers Cowboy 797. Kinda struggles on the up to 4 layers of 4/5oz I run into with the bottom gusset and inner seam, but its learning experience. Do need to bum a cylinder arm machine somewhere. Sewing the bottom on a tabletop is so tricky.

Both are not 100% finished, I still need to add a rain cover and resew the webbing (I did not burn the ends). The idea for the project was for the tent to fit into the back pocket of the backpack and provide padding. These are my first pieces of outdoor gear I’ve made so please shoot me some questions, advice, and critique for future projects. Overall super thrilled with the outcome.

I've been using the bucket boss for a couple years and I do like its style of organization. What I don't like is being forced into carrying a cylinder which doesn't really work in any car or truck situation that well. I also don't care for all your tools being on the outside of the container.

It occurred to me that today but I had all the ingredients for the solution. I took a standard bucket Boss and chopped the panels. The interior bucket panels are cut down and become the crate end caps. Fold the top over, capture some two-sided velcro as you sew around.

That's it. Now you have Bucket Boss organization without a space inefficient cylinder and a bunch of pokey things sticking out.

I know most of myog is sewing but I figured this fits too - had a vision to knit a pair of tabi socks, so I could wear my sandals at night when it's cool and forgo a camp shoe. I'd say it was a success!

Alpha colors are hard to come by, so today I experimented dyeing some white Alpha. It was sewn into a jacket earlier this week, so I wasn’t dyeing yardage. I also had some lightweight white Polartec Power Dry remnants, so I dyed them at the same time. My first attempt was dismal because I didn’t follow the directions and was trying to create “ombré” or graduated shades from bottom to top of the jacket. Instead of stirring constantly I was pressing the fabric down and I don’t think I used enough dye. It was very blotchy. So, I started over using a full bottle of Rit dye for synthetics and I stirred it constantly for 30 minutes, then just soaked it for 20 minutes. While not perfect, I’m pretty pleased with the results. The Alpha is style 4412. It’s super lightweight and similar to gsm Alpha Direct jackets I’ve. Made previously. Alpha was intended to be insulation and Alpha Direct was developed to be worn next to skin as both an insulation and lining. I made a couple of videos showing the process which I posted to instagram but for this post I’ll just share a couple of pictures as well as the finished jacket in white, then dyed purple.

used the myogtutorials darted hip pack pattern. VX21 outer, robic 220D liner, venom stretch grid inner pocket, uretek zippers 1" webbing w/ a fidlock

made it mostly to get some practice before embarking on a pack build but might riff iterate on this design a bit. Solid little minimalist mirrorless camera bag or a lightweight edc if that's your cup of tea.

my little b38 that could was protesting on the webbing bartacks... might be time for a juki...

open to critiques!

I’ve made a couple basic zipper bags and then attempted these for my bike. I struggle on the corner seems but I think I’m getting better! thx to my helper too.

My first myog project.

This is a very simple design. A cylinder with one end closed off and the other with a drawstring closure.

Fabric used is 65d sil/poly and a double layer of 133g/sqm Climashield Apex insulation.

I opted for a waterproof fabric because most of the time the dog will be wet or damp and it’s what I had at hand for a future rinko-bag.

I work at a university where there's a relatively big machine workshop, lathes, 5 axis mills, welding etc. so I dumpster dive in their recycling bins for material. Found this stiff brass mesh and after very little thinking I turned it into my new daily backpack :D my fingers are killing me but the result is totally worth it :3 I just have to not sit on it....

Edit: I made my own clothing tags cause I sew clothes all the time. And yes, the clothes tag is a picture of my dog with glasses on.

Finally decided to take the plunge on a backpack, figured I’d made enough tote bags and smaller projects, how much harder could a backpack be? The pack was designed with backcountry touring in mind and some specific features for powsurfing.

Lots of things I learned through the process and a couple tweaks I would make if I ever do another version.

Tried to use fabrics I already had on hand from other projects which gave it a cool feel with a mix of lots of different technical fabrics.

A tote bag made out of an old Dutch military bag and black canvas. This was a very fun project, I've learned a lot and for my first time sewing it looks decent to me.

lmk what you think.

The straps that came with it are neoprene and the edges where the rubber is exposed cause skin irritation, plus the Velcro doesn’t stay stuck so the straps can’t be tightened enough without the Velcro popping. And who knows straps better than bra makers?

Idk if this is exactly “gear” but it’s sewing that’s definitely not apparel, lol

Just wrapped up a Super Tote for my older daughter to use for school.

This one’s built out of 1000D Cordura, with a 420D Robic bottom accent and lined with 400D packcloth. It’s fully lined and features a recessed zipper — which, unfortunately, took me three tries. No matter how carefully I measured, it somehow ended up either too short or too long the first two times. Third time was the charm.

I designed it with lots of organization in mind since she tends to carry everything. It’s packed with pockets:

• Two water bottle pockets

• Padded laptop sleeve

• Full-width zippered pocket

• Several smaller interior pockets for supplies

On the outside, it has two lined pockets (one zippered), and she asked for a few spots to clip things on, so I added several D-rings for that.

I also made her a removable shoulder strap in case that’s more comfortable than hand carry. For that, I modified LearnMYOG’s Chonky Sling strap pattern. I added a couple loops of elastic to the back so she can fold the strap over and keep clopped it to the side when it’s not in use — keeps everything tidy.

Overall, really happy with how it turned out — and more importantly, she is too.

This pack was a long time in the making, with delays for custom patterning, new machines, and distractions to have some fun in the sun.

The full vest style straps are a new pattern to me, complete with a yoke, full wrap around the torso, and a dial tightener. There are three pockets on each side, enough space to store 2x800ml flasks, about a thousand calories, and little essentials like a headlamp and inreach. Rounded out with a bottom pocket, there is a ton of accessible storage available.

There a few incremental upgrades from my previous packs such as refined side bottle pockets and fully replaceable shock cords, and a removable top strap.

17.9oz with all the removable parts included.

I built these little zipper pouches. First time making a video and pattern/build guide.

What I tried:

• Built V1 with duck canvas, webbing tabs and edge binding on zips to prevent fraying but was too much for the domestic machine.
• Came up with the paracord pull tabs, plus figured out a lot about thread size instead of just using my Sailrite.

What I Learned:

• V69 may be at the upper limit for vintage domestics, but the Kenmore 158s that I have struggled. I bought some V46 which was much better.
• It was fun knocking these out after I got the machines and final design sorted. I ended up making a bunch of them.
• I usually just make one-off bags except for the occasional Christmas gift batches. Taking the time to make a build guide and record everything added a lot, but I enjoyed the process. Plus, next time I won't have to figure the steps out all over again due to forgetting!

Full Build Video: https://youtu.be/Da76CL4-2Kk

Free Build Guide: https://free.skilledsapien.com/

Hey just wanted to share this bag I made today on request from one of the fellow sub member.

The request came in 13 hours ago, but I was so pumped up and excited, that I made this bag including the patterns in 12 hours..

The previous bag went from 4.5L Sling to 18L backpack. The user wanted an 8L Sling with orange interior lining, plus better padding and cushion without adding dead space.

And that’s what I’ve achieved with this bag.

The backpack has 22L capacity and comes with slightly better padding and air mesh back panel as opposed to the previous bag that went from 4.5L Sling to 18L backpack..

I’m sharing the build here and open to suggestions and feedback.

I saw another bikepacker with a double bottle cage adaptor last month when bikepacking the Tassie Traverse. I have a small frame so maximising space without going crazy on a heavy setup has always been a challenge.

I took inspiration from the Botched Bikes Stainless Steel Dragonfly and the Cyclewerks Bottle Cage Double Adaptor to make my own.

I saved myself $50 with my DIY build as it cost me $0 with what I could find lying around. I first created a few paper templates. I couldn't find any aluminium or stainless steel the right thickness but found some plexiglass so I cut it to size and heat bent it.

It is the standard 64mm separation between hole centres. I would suggest using a bottle cage then just marking out the holes with a marker to make things easier.

I'm pretty happy with it. It seems to be pretty strong and my legs don't hit it when giving it a test ride. I'll have to test out its durability out on a bikepacking trip.

Photos can be found on my Instagram @nigel_abello for anyone needing more outdoor adventure / inspiration to bikepack around Australia 👍

With the help of my girlfriend, who has much more experience with sewing machines, and inspiration from this subreddit, I was able to make this framebag💜

Hello r/MYOG, 

I've been experimenting with some two-layer Alpha Direct (AD) garments inspired by the work of Stephen Seeber and Farpointe Outdoor Gear's Duo hoodie, among other makers who have experimented with stacked AD. I have a dream of starting an ultralight gear brand, and want to share some of the projects I've been working on towards this goal. 

Stephen Seeber published an article in August 2021 on Backpacking Light titled "The Search for a Fleece Replacement – A Close Look at Active Insulation and the role of MVTR" in which he shares quantitative performance metrics on various active insulation fabrics (https://backpackinglight.com/seeber-active-insulation/). In this, Seeber writes that "layering two 60-gram samples produce greater thermal resistance than either the 120 gsm or 190 gsm versions" with a higher insulation-to-weight (measured by intrinsic clo/oz) than all other variants (90/120/190), acknowledging limitations in the samples and testing methods used. Stephen's data table is included in the photos.

Having made several AD garments including 60 gsm, 90gm, and Alpha Direct with wool, I was interested to try my hand at a double-layer 60gsm construction and gather some 'field anecdotes' of performance.

One of these two-layer fleeces is a hoodie made with Tim from LearnMYOG's pattern, and the other is a half-zip made with an original pattern created with a local garment maker designed to accommodate two stacked layers of AD. The adjustments we made include differential grading of the inner and outer layers to account for an exaggerated "turn of cloth" effect due to AD's high loft, shortened wrist and waist hems on the inner layer to reduce bulk, and added elasticity with overlock seams and polyurethane sewn into the waistline to better hold structure.

Compared to the single-layer 60 and 90gsm versions, the 2x60gsm is indeed significantly warmer when worn under a shell, and has a slight improvement in wind resistance when worn as an outer layer. The breathability and moisture management feels the same as a single-layer version.

The two layers of 60gsm fleece as an outer layer reduced my frequency of needing to wear a shell in higher winds. It feels as if the second layer of AD adds slightly more "wind-break" to the point of increasing my threshold higher for wind speed at which to need a shell. I do not bring a wind shell, and instead use a 3-layer system for most of my 3-season camping: a base, this stacked AD mid, and a rain shell with zips.

Where I notice a big improvement with two layers has been cold-weather jogging. In negative temperatures with low wind, the two-layer fleece on top of a base feels ideal for longer distance runs. In the case of high winds at sub-zero temps, wearing a high-CFM breathable windbreaker on top is a supreme combination for keeping warm and dry while exerting. 

By stacking layers of Alpha Direct 60 gsm, it is near-doubling the loft while leaving the breathability the same. Until a fabric with higher loft and lower density than alpha direct 60 is released, it seems that stacking two layers of 60gsm AD yields the highest warmth-to-weight active insulation possible beyond a single layer of 60gsm.

I would greatly appreciate any feedback or anecdotes about stacked Alpha Direct. Seeber’s data suggests 60gsm is the most efficient starting point, and thereafter,  2x60gsm seems like the natural evolution for optimization -- but what am I missing? Other than the difficulty in construction, is there a trade-off with stacked layers that makes a single 90 or 120gsm layer better for the long haul?

Thank you for your time.

• Max

Hi all, I know a lot of us use the Singer HD for MYOG projects, so I wanted to share a couple of 3D printable upgrades I designed for the machine.

One is a handwheel grip (with m3 screw tightener), and the other is a beefed up reverse lever. I’ve found both really helpful, especially the handwheel when pushing through thicker fabrics.

If anyone wants to try them out, I’ve uploaded the (free) files to my MakerWorld account.

https://makerworld.com/en/@CamMakesGear/upload

Enjoy!

I recently bought some TPU coated fabrics to experiment with, after seeing pouches by u/g8trtim.

These pouches are made from 70D nylon fabric with TPU coating on the back for the shell and 40D ripstop nylon with TPU backing as liner/seam tape, no bonding tape required. The liner in the larger pouch is completely bonded onto the shell fabric. The zippers are regular water resistant zippers, they’re usually coated with TPU, too, so they’re a perfect fit for heat bonding.

Really interesting to tinker around with, in order to find the right temperature, pressure and duration for seams to bond properly. It really bonds well with coated zippers, too. It’s just pretty easy to miss the right spot, therefore the scorch marks on the zippers.

I usually use a backpack while riding long trips but I recently purchased this rack. When I went looking for a cheap trunk bag they were all so ugly, floppy, and tended to leaned to the side (said the reviews). So I went to work and tried to design something minimalist, light weight, expandable, water resistant, and tightly held to the rack. This is what I threw together!

It has 1.25mm HDPE insert in the base, velcro strap up front, and the seatbelt webbing are single strips attached at the base that go all the way around. It does NOT move!

I just really love how it came out and wanted to share. Thanks!

I figure i should finally post some pics of some of my projects over the years. All were made with sailrite lsz1 machine I bought in 2008. I don't have the guts to design sails myself so I usually get a kit from sailrite or from another designer.

New account, but long-time lurker - been so inspired by all you awesome makers out there and wanted to engage a little more. Have started to feel confident enough to share & get advice on projects.

Sorry for the long post, I have ADHD so I struggle being concise (at least I’m in the habit of blaming it haha…. specs are at the bottom if you wanna skip to that.

Been repairing clothes, hiking gear for a few years, and more recently making dry bags and the occasional thing for my mini-Doxie (she does not accompany me on the hikes sadly). Only really sunk my teeth into more complex builds and pattern making in the last 7 months or so. I made this EDC as a gift for a friend and it’s been an awesome build, probably my favourite so far. Really pushed the efficiency and managed to get this off my drafting software and onto my back in about 8 hours over a few evenings. Everything is either flat-felled, bound (this actually caused some puckering you can see on the bottom because I used a narrower S/A than usual), or double/top stitched.

This bag just started as an evolution of some ideas I’ve been mulling over for a few months. Recently I’ve been practising studying finished forms (mostly smaller things) and then recreating them without drafting or following a pattern, just to get out of my head a bit and put the fabric straight to the table. It’s a really gratifying exercise, but can also be frustrating.

I was keen to try some elements of a Merchant & Mills daypack which I really like so sort of incorporated those into the design as I went, especially the pleated front panel with the zipper storm flap. As a result it sort of feels neither here nor there and not really my own, but I was sure sad to let it go and have already learned a lot in the making. The problem in trying to make something original is that everything’s already been done and you just gotta honour it and be you.

MATERIALS

The bag is mostly olive 210d Gridstop and the ‘wrong side’ of coyote Ultrastretch, as well as some of last season’s British Millerain’s Sahara Tech Wax canvas. I lined it with a BCI soft-touch canvas in glorious mustard which was a first for me as I usually just bind the inside, but seeing as I was just making a top loader for an IT dude that felt like a nice touch - totally forgot to get some photos of it, though. The only stuff I couldn’t find in the UK was the Vatan 6mm 3d Airmesh which went into the padded back panel and upper vest straps, as well as the Hexmesh for the full vest (which I adapted from the MYOG fastpack straps) and anodised hardware which I got from my fave, AdventureXpert.

The leather bits including the label are all from some 1.5mm rescued scrap and is also the first ‘leather work’ I’ve done (if you can call it that) so excuse some of the rough stitching and lack of burnished edges. I love leather work but also (kind of) vegetarian so only really willing to salvage or pay for scrap. Would love a few pointers if that’s anyone’s wheelhouse.

The bag came to:

£50-£60 for materials actually used

8-9 hours labour

49cmx32cmx16cm

and 1kg on the dot.

I’m a photographer but literally never take the time to properly document stuff unless I’m on a job, so it was nice to do a kinda shameless product shoot before I shipped it off! Think I’ll try get in the habit of doing this more often.

Have some X11 in black lined up for the next project with an RX30 in Alpenglow for accents and the pocket lining. This is going to be a dedicated camera bag so will definitely be diving back into the leather stuff as I want to make some lash points for a tripod. I’ll also probably make it a bit taller in the torso to accommodate a back access zipper for my 16” laptop as well as a clamshell front access zipper for my camera cube when I’m on shoots.

Thanks for reading if you got to the end!! I’ll be shorter next time.

Hey gang!
An ultralight down jacket has been on my "Maker Bucket List" for a really long time.
The goal was a super duper ultra warm down jacket, jamming as much down as I possibly could into the jacket.

I show the entire build in my YouTube video. In the first minute I show most of the bloopers from working on it. I also demo the use of a cardboard tube and netting + a shop vac to suck up the down from the bag and blowing it into each baffle.

Details:
~4yds of Membrane 15 ECO (charcoal gray)
~6.5 oz of 850 Downtek Down
#5 Vislon (plastic teeth) zipper (one way separating)
Elastic trim for the sleeve cuffs
Removable waist cinch, using shock cord
Sewn through baffles with 2" loft
11 oz finished weight.

Cost of goods:

4 yds Mem15: $48

6.5 oz of down: ~$90

#5 zipper: ~$2

Total = ~$140

Approximately 8 hours spent making this.

This was a really fun project and if you're looking for a challenge, this is a serious one.
I have down feathers everywhere.
I'm going to be really really warm on my trip to Iceland in May.

If you could do me a favor, show some love to our YouTube channel!
I'm putting out MYOG video content pretty consistently these days and I'm really hoping to make the YT channel worthwhile. The more traction the channel gets = the more content I post

Happy Making!
-Matt

p.s. I made the yellow shorts too

What do you guys think.I’m interested in hearing your opinions on it!

1000d cordura for the most part. Liner is rubberized with heavy seam seal. 2" husky kneeling pads for insulation. Tall boy pilsner for scale. I'm still new to the hobby but pretty pumped on how this turned out. Thanks for the inspiration!

Inspired by a few other posts on here, I had a go at working out my own pattern for a pouch with a deep pleat so it could hold a good amount and pack down flat when not in use. This was my first time reverse engineering something from pictures so it took a bit of mental gymnastics but I'm really happy with the outcome and the knowledge that I can adapt it further in the future. Just need to work on making my edges sharper too!

Fabric is Flo Yellow VX21 from Profabrics and a generic zipper.

Reasonable price and return policy should you have problems. Anyone take the plunge?

Just finished my second handmade sleeping bag. This one is 7 feet in length and 35" wide (roomy enough for me to spin completely around in and still have room to spare). Has an insulated side wall around the entire length to give it a roomy interior. The zipper runs all the way to the feet, and there's a draft tube along the inside of the zipper to keep the cold air from seeping in. The zipper is accessible from the inside and outside. The outer shell is Hyper D calendered nylon, which adds to the waterproofing. The inner shell is uncalendered nylon, which is more comfortable and breathable on the skin. The insulation is 5oz Climashield Apex, which has a comfort rating of 20°F. I included a hood with this design, which can be buttoned closed near the zipper, resulting in a small rectangular window for airflow, but still keeping in warmth. The hood is roomy enough to use a pillow and the side walls will keep it in place. Even though this sleeping bag is 7 feet long, it only weighs 2lbs and compresses down to about the size of a basketball. The compression bag I used for it is a little too big to show its full compression size.

About this time last year I made my first down jacket. Learned a ton… but I sized it too small in the arms and back, so I never wore it. It just hung on my coat rack while I reached for my other sewn jackets — silently judging me and reminding me of all that wasted effort.

This winter I finally decided to reclaim the down and try again. That process was… chaotic. But I managed to recover about 95%, which honestly felt like wizardry. If you’re considering it — totally doable, just messy and time-consuming.

For round two I started with a real pattern and more research. From digging through posts here, it seems like a huge percentage (honestly ~75%) of first MYOG puffies end up too tight in the back and arms — which matched my experience perfectly — so I intentionally sized up quite a bit.

I used the Jalie 2108 Puffer Jacket pattern and simplified things:

• Taped a bunch of pattern pieces together so the body became one big piece
• Made a test jacket from a random roll of canvas I bought for 10$ and then made some adjustmetn to the final pattern
• Folded along the bottom baffle at my waist to avoid hemming (saves weight + steps)
• Wouldn’t do that again — the long piece shifted while sewing horizontal baffles and threw things a little off

Binding question:
If anyone has tips for binding raw edges faster, I’m all ears. This part took forever. I made my own tape from a 2.5" strip using a rolled hem foot on both sides, then stitched it over the seams on the inside. It worked… just slow.

Also — if you want practice sewing Argon .49, grab some trash bags and sew those together. No joke. That’s what this stuff feels like. It does get easier each time though.

Somewhere during the down-stuffing haze I blacked out because the only photos I took were before stuffing and after it was finished.

End result: I’m stoked.
It’s crazy warm and actually fits.

Useful sizing data:
👉 Finished jacket ended up about 12–15% smaller than the pattern after lofting.

Materials:

• Argon .49 fabric
• 950 fill down (~95% recovered)
• 1.3 in. theoretical loft
• Microtex 60/8 needle
• Mara 150 thread
• Sewn on a Singer 401a

Random hack that helped a lot:

I superglued a tiny piece of thin cardboard (cut from the needle packaging) over the stitch plate to shrink the needle hole — basically a DIY zero-clearance plate. Huge reduction in snagging/bunching with Argon .49.

Had to replace it a couple times as the hole wore out, but acetone cleaned the glue off fine.

Oh — and I didn’t use a walking foot because mine broke on the first stitch of the project… which felt very on-brand for this build.

Update: I just deleted the previous post, since I accidentally posted an image with the face visible..

just built a new product using the same construction and design principle of the previous bag I posted here.

This version has 1L storage capacity on the Fanny pack and 7L capacity on the Active pack with a separate sleeve for 1.5L Hydration pack.

I used 600D Kodura on the outer shell, and 210D Kodura on the side panel and inner compartment.

The shoulder strap on the active pack has two dedicated slots for a 500ml water bottle and your phone or anything that you can fit inside.

I have uploaded the images of the 1st sample and the 2nd sample. The 2nd sample has yellow cords.

I would love to get your feedback and suggestions, on what to add and remove.

how it ended <- how it started.

I've been sick for the past couple of days and I couldn't handle hanging out on the couch any more so I worked on a purely for me project. when I'm working on a new design I model out all of the pattern pieces in Affinity designer, then I make a super quick mock up of it in the, make modifications and then make the final product.

I am fascinated by vintage hiking and mountaineering bags from the 70s and 80s. Many of these bags were styled after early swiss military bags and then modified to make them more purpose built. I love the look of them, their simple solutions to problems and their focus on durability over weight.

this bag is based on an old Kelty Cinch Sack from the 70s that I picked up off of eBay. I picked it up because it looked like it had a really unique pack lid system and I liked the side pockets. the lid isn't buckled, it has cord running through each side and down to a cord lock and grommet. you can't fully open the lid but you can pull the lid back up and over along the cord. kind of a unique system and solution.

My pack isn't a direct copy, it's more of an "influenced by" situation. the pack is made out of 1000d cordura with an oil tanned leather bottom. The lash patches were made using custom die cutters that I had made.

overall I'm super happy with the pack. I really like the idea of this style of pocket, but they were definitely the hardest part of the project. There must be an easier way to sew them to the body fabric. if you have any tricks, I'd love to hear them!