Digest of r/myog

Some totes I made and gifted to family for the holiday. Modeled after the Topo Designs mountain utility tote. Newer to sewing, so more than anything, while creating mockups, this project taught me how to use a seam ripper lol. Seams ended up getting pretty bulky in the boxed corners and around the top rims (lined with webbing inside and out), but I was able to run them all on my Juki 2010q.  Thanks to all of the previous posters on this sub for the inspiration.

Fabrics used:
bottom: 1680d nylon or 1000d cordura 
sides: 420d ROBIC Ripstop Nylon, 400d cordura for others
liner & cinch collar : 210d coated oxford
stabilizer: 10 oz pvc vinyl

Components from RSBTR

I based this project off this free pattern from Springbok crafts: https://youtu.be/31oDtpDFRV4?si=EHVbYG\_BeAzJOfIq.

Materials used were 2-3oz cowhide from Tandy (there’s an in person store near my house!), polyester upholstery thread, leftover Joann’s blizzard fleece from a different project, and elastic cord.

I lengthened the removable liners, left an opening at the bottom, and added elastic cord to adjust fit. I also used a 1/2 seam allowance on the liners and did not sew through the bottom seam on the leather mittens because my home machine couldn’t handle it. The last alteration I made was I cut slits for my index fingers so I can get poop bags out and use my phone without taking them off.

I’m happy to report they work perfectly and are warm. The only thing I would change is I’d use deerskin or something more flexible, but Tandy didn’t have any smaller cuts of those materials so it would have cost $150+. The split of cowhide plus some seam tape and tax cost me $36 plus I have enough left over for 2 more pairs.

NOTE: the up close picture of the finger hole was on a test mitten I sewed up twice: once with 1/2 inch seam allowance and once with 1/4 inch to get sizing right. For the leather shells I went with 1/4 inch and the liners I used 1/2 inch.

I got the specifics for my template by cutting up an old tee until it looked about the same as the vest I had in mind, then outlined it on taped together printer paper. The body and pockets are made out of a duck canvas pattern and lined with maroon speckled flannel. The neck is made of an elastic ribbing folded in half. The zipper is 20” brass.

Just wraped up a xmas break project

Picked up some Ecopac from the quest outfitters sale and made this camera packing cube/bag for my new camera.

Features: Customizable divider layout, internal pocket with stretch mesh and stretch binding, lined zipper pocket, elastic SD card storage slots, webbing grab handles on side panels, adjustable webbing strap for wearing the bag, rear external storage pocket for webbing strap with magnet zip closure and multiple attachment points for webbing strap around side seams of bag depending on preference.

Full pattern listed in link Link to portfolio site that hosts pattern, couldn't figure out how to upload it here so I threw it on my portfolio.

Tech pack will be coming in the next few weeks.

If anyone is interested in making one before I get the tech pack out, feel free to reach me here or through my contacts on my portfolio if you have any questions!

Made from:

Ecopac EPX 200

Robic 240D

Automotive headliner fabric (would have used Veltex but had some of this laying around and velcro REALLY sticks to it)

6mm EVA foam from Michaels

3/4" Webbing

Magnet zip from A+ hardware (check this out if you have not already its super satisfying to use)

G hooks from A+ hardware

1" Gross grain binding

Some stretch mesh scraps from work (sorry I don't know where its from likely not available in low MOQ)

Probably some other stuff I'm spacing currently

I made a small seam roller, for applying PSA TAPE. It needs a lot of pressure (hence the name pressure sealed adhesive) and I didn’t really understand that. But now I do, so I made a seam roller because I didn’t want to order one online and I hate Amazon and I had a skateboard bearing. So I hope you make one and avoid Amazon!

First

I'm bummed this type of gridstop isnt available in colors anymore. Trying to use my scraps of it wisely 💔

I'm ecstatic, simply ecstatic. I finally managed to get a almost professional S-curved strap going on the first try (On 'real' fabric, that is).

I've cut and assembled everything myself, and couldn't be happier with the results... I CAN FINALLY WORK IN THE CAMO'S I REALLY WANT!

Up until now I've had to rely on an off-the-shelve harness which I'd sew in, and which was a pretty limiting factor in which camo's I could use, but now I'm free!

The slots, the overall symmetry of the webbing running up, the spacing and seams... Wonderful.

This was the last hurdle to true awesomeness, and it's been broken!

I've been making some wetsuits for the past year, and figured it was time to share some of it. This is right before stitching it.

This year I made my girlfriend a Miffy inspired plush that looks like her bunny. After I'd already finished, she asked for a tote/bag for Christmas. Obviously I had to make them match

The ears have buckles sewn on to keep them weighed down and floppy. When you attach the shoulder strap, the ears stay up like he's alert lol

Feedback and thoughts appreciated!!!

I made this bag inspired on a a pattern from the REI flash 18L. I made several changes that include the roll top closure, zipper back opening, addition of attachment points, side pocket, and several other additions!

I’ve been pursing a small dream of mine of wild life photography and carry my camera and two lenses in a regular backpack during hikes.

With the zipper back opening I’ll have easier access to the back of the pack where a future camera cube will go! The best part is that without a camera cube it’s a regular hiking pack!

The features of the pack include:

Materials:

- dyneema 5.0 white

- venom gridstop lilac

Exterior:

- exterior zipper with a big side pocket

- water bottle side pocket

- exterior attachment points

- fidlock magnetic buckle for the roll top closure

- Sock cord

Interior back panel:

- two open end pockets

- water bladder pocket

- key attachment

- daisy chain for attachment points

Interior of pack

- 18 L +2 L with the roll top

- interior attachment points

- water bladder straw hole to the exterior of the bag

I LOVE the fit of these pants from LinasTraumwerkstatt on Etsy!

I want to recreate these as a snowboarding mid-layer in polartec power grid or alpha direct, but I'm not sure if this fit/drape is doable with such thin fabrics.

I also am having a hard time figuring out if the canvas patches would limit the warming/moisture wicking properties of the polartec underneath. (I want to keep them in high friction spots so they last longer)

Also, if anyone has any tips on how to minimize the amount of fabric inside my boots without having to change the fit of the pants I would love them! Right now my plan is to make the bottoms stretchy enough to have them sit on top of my boot, but I feel like there's a better way.

Design goal: build a bag that has expandable paddle storage on the front and a small amount of space for layers, food, etc.

I'm definitely on the right track. If Id remembered to add the side ball pockets I would feel even better about it. As it stands I mostly met my design goals. The front paddle storage works surprisingly well. Ive already adjusted the shape in the pattern to better secure paddles side to side. I really like the grommet style of cinch closure. It's really smooth and seems to do a better job than a standard channel.

Things to change in the next iteration: -add the side pockets -change front flap shape -increase the height of the cinch panel to aid in the cinching.

I'd love feedback!

I used lambskin for the exterior and canvas for the interior.

All machine stitched ( I used a Juki)

Made the pattern myself adding an extra handle so the backpack can be carried as a bag.

Feel free to ask any questions

First jacket made from tents and the stuffing and lining from a sleeping bag and the clasps are cast from aluminum tent pegs!

Super fun project

It was crunch time and I needed to make a day pack for the last person on my holiday list. I didn't have enough time to develop my own pattern so I decided to buy the Summit 15 pattern from MYOGTutorials. I made a few small cha ges to fit my needs. I added a small hanging internal pocket, a front stretch pocket, a front zipper pocket and a foam back panel. All pretty minor changes, but I think they really add to the overall function.

I also tried out a bit of a different strap construction: spacer mesh sandwiched between monolite. I think this is going to be a viable construction for lightweight straps or even vest straps.

2 types of Ecopak + hybrid DCF. First time using proper lining fabric (coated on backside). Sewing curves was harder than I anticipated, especially with non stretch materials. Used Ultra 100 X PSA for edges.

Enjoy the holidays everyone!

Was listening to a Ripstop By the Roll podcast sometime over the summer where one of the hosts mentioned giving out U zip bags as gifts and thought that was a terrific idea. So, I made a couple for the two family white elephant gift exchanges I'm doing. Both are made from random fabric I had that I thought would be the most generally appealing for each specific group. I also took the opportunity to try my hand at waxing canvas for the first time for the one on the left. Turned out pretty well!

This was a great little project that really helped me improve at sewing curves and putting on bias binding and I can already see improvements between bag 1 (on the right) and bag 2 (on the left). I also got the idea to put on bias binding on the zipper tape for the bag on the left, and I think it gives it a cleaner look.

Edit to add: Pattern was from Learn MYOG by the fantastic u/g8trtim

I ripped apart a bag on Amazon to try and reconstruct it with my own materials but I can't for the life of me get these curved corners stitched cleanly together. Any advice?

Just thought I would share. I'm doing some custom pillows and wanted them to be compatible with the Zenbivy Sheets so I worked up a 3D printable clip for the Zenbivy system. Works a champ and the snap action "feels" just right.

If this is helpful to you, get the model here... https://makerworld.com/en/models/2147628-zenbivy-style-cord-loop-clip#profileId-2326923

Wanted to give back to this great community!

After hiking about 1000km on the Houte route pyreneas+ a few smaller hikes with my backpack I am really pleased with it. in my opinion it held up great, and the veststraps + hipbelt made it the most comfortable backpack i have used so far. my baseweight was about 4,5kg on the longest foodcarry it weight about 12-13kg. from 5 to 10kg it felt absolutely great, starting at 12kg, i felt the vest restrickted my breathing a little bit when going uphill fast (heavy breathing), i think this could be improved with some more elastic chest closure meckanisms.

the waterproofness was superb, i had some heavy rains along my hike and it kept perfectly dry. even towards the end of the hike. there starts to be a tiny bit of delamination of the DCF in the top part of the rolltop, but still looks perfect further down.

obviously it got quite dirty pretty quick, maybe in the future i would make the hipbelt pockets and the waterbottle pockets black instead of white.

I realy liked to have some more storage on the vest for snacks, phone and inreach and sunglasses.

the iceaxe loops and treckingpole atatchments worked realy well i am super happy with them. I riped the handstitch that held the left hipbelt pocket to the hipbelt, it was handsewn becouse my sewingmachine cant sew through the 10mm foam of the hipbelt, so i just need to do a better job there for the next time.

I also finished making the digital pattern for the backpack. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/06f6y5qxpn09h1ot1e845/45L-framless-fastpack-design-by-Jannek-Loeffler-dec2025.zip?dl=0&e=1&file_subpath=%2F45L+framless+fastpack+design&rlkey=pmls7g6xnig2mb0m9ao00a3su&st=7c5w9105

i didnt have time to write the instructions for it, but if you need instructions it is overall quite simmilar to prickly gorse frameless packs atleast in the steps needed for construction

if you try and have some questions or feedback i would love to hear it.

Materials used: IKEA DIMPA transparent storage bag, black UHMWPE nylon, inexpensive webbing, double-sided velcro, inexpensive no brand waterproof zipper.

Yes, I know the material is very not durable, but this is not going backpacking anywhere, it's on my commuter bike probably to take some snacks or food when going swimming next summer.

Fun project to get familiar with making frame bag before getting more serious with more expensive materials. I have always been attracted to translucent materials and thought it would be a nice experiment to attempt something like this.

Made a laptop bag + pouch as a gift for my gf. Thank you to all those that replied to my earlier post (https://www.reddit.com/r/myog/s/bOhytQPqtG) on how to do the pouch fold the way I wanted it.

I am happy with the result except for the design of the handle. I am also very happy with the fact that I could use a lot of leftover material that would have otherwise been thrown away.

I followed learnMYOG Porter Pony instructions on how to make the lining, and with the exception of the straps everything else is self drafted (used myogtutorials’ online tool to get the right shape for the darts though)

The “job to be done” for the bag was to be as small as possible while carrying out the following tasks:

⁠hold her laptop + laptop sleeve on the back, with foam from the packaging of an office chair as a protection on the back and on the bottom • ⁠hold her thermos snug in the side pocket • ⁠keys need to be easily reachable (she hates looking for them on the doorstep once she gets home) • ⁠have enough space inside for her notebook, stationary pouch, makeup pouch (the one with netting on the back to see through), beanie and mittens and scarf, potentially lunch/snacks • ⁠I really like the darts for the front an wanted that white stripe to mimic the design of another bag she likes (that would cost way more than what it cost me to make one for her)

Thoughts and learnings on design and the making:

⁠I am not doing a bag with lining again, too much hassle and effectively x2 drawing cutting and sewing • ⁠I also wanted to have a top zipper to access a smaller pocket to put keys and wallet, but it was complicating the design and I was too busy with work and other commitments so I simplified the project. • ⁠the foam I used for the back and bottom i also used for the straps and it doesn’t really fill them, they do not look tight. Will have to be more careful adjusting width in the future.

This was good learning and a pilot for the next bag for myself. I intend to make a similar one for my commuting to work as well, it was good to test the design with scraps and turn it into something useful!

(I’m re-posting this because the first time not all pictures got uploaded for some reason. Hope the formatting is ok)

Got a chance to test out this table and it’s pretty nice! I would say it packs small enough to be acceptable and it helps a lot with keeping your stuff out of the snow when making hot chocolate on the trail 🤣

In all honestly after using it I don’t think the real one will be worth the weight, money, time etc. but this one is JUST useful enough to make it into the bag and get used on the trail.

I made a clamp for the isobutane stove. It screws from the bottom and tensions onto the base of the canister. It’s really solid!

Even if the table is on a huge slant, it’s fine. It’s still useful and the stove still works well. It’s like having the stove on slightly uneven ground, which happens all the time.

I will be updating the files on cults 3d to include the little clamp for the stove. They are free if you were wondering.

Having first made a pouch with heat sealable TPU fabric, I thought an easier method would be to no-sew a bag with HeatnBond UltraHold fusible web. This is a reasonable alternative to Bemis Sewfree that you can find at craft stores and use with a clothes iron.

I made up a pattern with a seam allowance. I created a pattern for the Ultrahold that was then cut precisely with a Cricut Maker. Paper templates allowed precise sewing of the curved zipper opening. To create the zipper opening I sewed a welt and then flipped to wrong side and adhered the fabric layers. Then topstitched the zipper, somewhat messy. The pouch was then formed by ironing Ultrahold between fabric layers.

The small iron and the wood brayer roller make a nice combo to get rock solid seams. Next one I’ll plan to experiment with complete no-sew by adhering the zipper to the shell fabric.

It’s a pretty fun technique that fakes the ultrasonic welding look. Want to try this if I post the pattern?

A few years ago, I made a small fanny pack for my partner as a travel bag. Nothing fancy. I sketched it on cardstock, sewed two versions, and figured we’d use them on a trip and then move on.

That did not happen.

Two (three?) years later, her original bag is still in rotation every single day. It has been on planes, on hikes, through cities, into cafés, theaters, bars, and churches. It has been stuffed, underfilled, overfilled, spilled on, rained on, set down on questionable surfaces, lost once and found again, used, abused, ridden hard and put away wet, and generally treated the way a real piece of gear gets treated. No ceremony and no special care. Just use.

At some point it stopped being “a thing I made” and started being a thing that just existed. It shows up in reflections. In couples photos without being invited. Hanging by the door. Slung over a chair. Always already there.

That makes it, without question, the most heavily used piece of gear I’ve ever made. It is certainly showing its age at this point which, for function, seems to have made no difference at all.

There are coffee and booze stains worked into the lining now. A faint smell of sunscreen that never quite goes away. The zipper pull has been re-tied once or twice with whatever cord was nearby at the time. I’ve watched it get dumped out on bar tops, park benches, airport floors, and the tailgate of the car while someone searched for a lip balm or a parking ticket or something equally unimportant. It has been half-zipped in a rush, clipped on crooked, tossed onto the passenger seat, kicked under it, and retrieved again without so much as a complaint.

After a couple of years of that kind of use, I finally sat down and digitized the pattern and documented the hell out of the construction steps. Not because it needed improvement, but because it had already proven itself by being boring in the best way. It worked. And it kept working. Nothing clever broke. Nothing essential went missing.

I’ve shared the pattern for free now under the name Towpath Pack, named for the canal walks she and I love. Mostly because I like the idea of other people making a perfectly fine fanny pack and then forgetting about it because it’s doing its job.

Not every project needs to be precious. Some things just need to work.

You showed interest in these no-sew or low-sew pouches. I wrote up a tutorial on creating bonded seams at home with fusible adhesive. If you want to experiment with the technique, there’s a free pattern that includes a flat pouch and a standing pouch. Hope you try out this technique and find ways to use in your projects.

[Bonded Seams at Home](https://learnmyog.com/articles/bondedSeams.html) - LearnMYOG

Fits perfectly inside a 60L barrel. Takes up minimal space. Bungee cords on the under side for flat gear. Would love to hear everyone’s thoughts!

There was this table thing that showed up on Reddit not too long ago, and I thought it was an interesting idea. But there were some good issues brought up in the comments. I addressed some of those, and this took a day or two to design and print. Considerations were;

Weight- the original is about #450-500 grams. Many said that was a weird in-between weight, we’re it’s too heavy for backpacking and ultralight packing, and if they are going to be using a car, a bigger more useful table is going to be a better choice. I reduced the weight of this system to about #250g for just the table and straps. Any accessories would be extra, but printable and lightweight.

Packability- the package is wider and taller than a Nalgene- a standard size comparison. I think because of the U CHANNEL design, the way it packs down is really big. I fixed this by only using an L channel, with interlocking flanges on each panel. This allows you to pack it very flat, and into a small tent stake bag or similar.

Manufacturing- as much as it’s a great idea to mass produce these parts- it’s being done in China, and I’m just done with outsourcing labor to China and supporting that. If you 3d print, you can make these parts very strong, and use some old tent poles to make up the metal bits. Or go to your local outdoor store and get a replacement pole for 20 bucks.

Tree size- the original is set at 6” which is fine, and I’m thinking of making this one a set distance as well, but having the ability to adjust the main legs is interesting.

Locking the table - the original design holds the main table poles in only by shock cord tension. The idea that you can just go up to this table and yank it a bit too hard and it’ll fall out of the mount, was not cool in my opinion. So I added a locking screw that keeps those poles in their place. Also, there is a bungee cord that keeps the plates pulled in so they don’t slide back.

Price- 200 Canadian bones is about right for this product and some accessories. But it’s such an inbetween product, I had a hard time backing it because I don’t know if I would even use it. So I wanted to test it, before backing them. But I think if I want to use a table like this, I’ll use mine.

3d printing- yeah it’s not heat resistant. Not the best. But it works for anything mildly warm, and you can always replace the slats. I’m trying to think of a way to use a sheet metal windscreen as the table instead. But you can print it in PBT and it’ll take a very hot plate or pot.

I’m not going to release the files, unless there is overwhelming enthusiasm. I still think the original will be better, but I’ve made some good improvements to weight price and functionality.

Weight limit? - I think advertising this item as being able to hold 20 lbs is fine, but this is definitely not a load bearing table.

Why did I do this? For fun, the idea is great, and I’m impatient…

Commerical thigh bags (pic 3) were way too bulky, looked goofy, and weren't even a thigh bag in my opinion if they have a belt around your waist. I recently switched over to a flip phone because I kept wasting my days away on my smartphone. And of course once switching away from my phone I needed something to play music and take pictures. I don't like having a lot of things in my pockets, especially because I work construction and my pockets get dirty quick. I needed something to carry everything, fanny packs seemed too lame same with the over the chest fanny pack, backpacks felt too inconvenient having to constantly take them off. I wanted something to put on and then forget about it. Realistically the only thing I could think of was a thigh pouch like a Naruto (pic 6), but those aren't realistic since they would slide down with a single strap, so finding nothing similar online, I made my own

A situation that may be common: there's some little thing that I could order online for less than $20 but I wanted to make it myself.

The Garmin Messenger only has a tiny little lanyard hole that I don't trust so I wanted an external clip/holder for it. It's $15 for the official thing plus shipping & tax so I found this post by u/flyingemberKC and made some changes.

It's some ecopak and random stuff I had laying around. I did two drafts with cheaper materials to get the pocket sizing right. Haven't taken it out yet but I'm happy with how it looks. Next time I might make a flap/cover in case it rains.

Challenges:

• Getting the size right so it's not too hard to pull out but also won't fall out
• Having the webbing curve correctly around the ecopak without wrinkling.
• Keeping my stitches straight and consistent (6/10 score)
• Strength & durability of the pocket opening
• Getting my needle through several layers of ecopak at once.

While mistakes were made, honestly pretty happy with how it came out... it's a large step up from my few weeks of sewing experience (got the Bernina 1130 a few weeks ago). The Stitchback instructions were excellent, the only struggle was with one part and my lack of reading ahead to better understand what I was doing.

Main material: HyperD 300 Bottom: Cordura 1000D Inside Material: 2.2oz Hex 70 XL Zippers...#5 YKk coil

Major mistake? Well, I screwed up and sewed the main entire body panel backwards...got over confident and went too quick. 30 minutes with a stitch ripper and I was extra careful the next time!

Whatcha think, how did I do?

These are slingbags that I've made.

L size : Ultra 200x / Venom UHMWPE GridStop 210D / YKK #5 / HHH #3

M Size(second version) : Ultra 200x / Venom UHMWPE GridStop 210D / HHH #3

S Size(Test Version) : Robic 420D / Robic 210D / HHH #3

I've considered dyeing it, but I don't know how much it will change the color.

Made a ~25 Liter pack for my buddy for skiing and snowmobiling. I’m also using this as a project for a college class, comparing water and energy use for a homemade bag to one from a larger brand.

It has an Avy tool pocket accessible from inside or the front zipper, internal zip pocket, radio port, tool and goggle pocket, and a stow able diagonal ski carry strap. 1140 grams total.

Needed a portable internet setup. Had a verizon business internet gateway was carrying to and from games in a tote bag, and was always worried about battery. Used an aliexpress backback, kydex, bulkheads, nylon, chicago screws, and some hand sewing to modify this camera bag to be a mobile internet bag. I added an extra battery and cables for charging and to run an external battery camera. This is basically a kids sports mobile steaming backback.

I'm a little worried about heat generation. I have a USB fan that I can add to the top to push air out, but given the amount of dirt (baseball + dust) this sees in a summer I'm hesitant to poke more holes.

Connecting to an external camera is done with the USB cable running from the battery to the camera (inside the original mesh, and cables ran to battery). Charging the battery is done from the same USB cable (USB-C). Simple to charge.

Power has to be done by opening it, one button to the router, and one to the battery.

LTE connectors are on the front side.
Wifi are on the sides.

My first holiday gift is finished! My father-in-law has been searching for a pack to use for downhill and backcountry skiing for a couple of years, so I decided to take a shot at making one for him. I started with my standard pattern and added two wraparound compression straps, a center zip with a storm flap, and a roll top. Overall I’m happy with it, although I’ve realized a roll top isn’t as convenient as a cinch top for a pack this size.

I also added a simple laptop sleeve, mostly because I wanted to learn how to build one. I made a panel with a solid fabric center and stretch fabric on the sides, bound the bottom, and sewed it to the back panel above the base so the laptop won’t hit the ground.

Materials: venom HPU200, Venom Gridstop and 400d pack cloth for the straps.

For many seasons I have been experimenting with layering for my winter sleep setup.

I quite like the numerous benefits and happily accept the small weight gain. Mostly I've used a down quilt with some Apex synthetic over-product.

But I want to push the temps lower, and the Apex insulation has not retained its loft long enough for me due to all the use I put on it. Down is better long term, so I made a down over-bag.

It's cut very roomy to accept my quilt without compressing loft. It has a hood but no zipper: only top entry. This is something I'm used to and like actually better than messing with a side/or top zipper. There's a draft collar and cinch at shoulder level and of course a cinch on the hood.

It is sewn thru with vertical baffles to offset the horizontal box baffles on my quilt. It's not a 'false bottom' design, as I find those low performance and more a buzz word than RL function.

To give it some resistance to frost and icy condensation in the tent, and whatever mysteriously settles on the bag from starry night skies when cowboy camping, I built in a layer of Alpha Direct over the torso and foot section.

I've used separate Alpha/ripstop over-bags before and they work really well, much more effective than the token backpacker bivy bag which invariably becomes a condensation nightmare when conditions go to shit.

But in these over-bag quantities AD is actually surprisingly heavy so here I limited it to about 80g, plus the extra layer of fabric.

Stats:

Over-bag 600g total - 300g down - 80g AD60

Quilt: 360g total - 220g down

System total: 960g total, fill: 520g - 80g

Based on prior experiments this may just be comfy enough with base layers to middle low teens when cowboy camping; and upper single digits in the tent (Fahrenheit). We'll see!

Not long ago I stumbled into this sub and now I’m hooked. So my second attempt at making my own gear was a backpack. It’s sorta my own pattern, which I designed after studying the various user made patterns in this sub. For the shoulder straps I used the pattern made by Goss (thanks a lot!). It’s inspired by the atompacks the nanu. Materials are Xpac Liteskin LS07 and a generic PE-mesh from Amazon (I had to tinker with the photos because the mesh is so black, no details were visible), and the weight is around 370g. For the back padding I glued EVA foam onto a 0,5mm pvc-sheet.

Kind of winged this, $100 sewing machine, no real pattern except for the straps, no specific design just a list of features I wanted. made primarily of Xpac vx21, with 210D grids top (all the orange stuff). I think it’s like 40 liters but I’m not sure exactly. The white pockets are spandura, as is the bottom pocket. Recently took it on its first trip which was Guadalupe peak. I’m a photographer and have 2 cameras but even outside of that I still overpacked, and had to take on 3 liters of my friends water on top of the 8 liters I already had. Despite all of that, the backpack was very comfortable and had no structural issues other than a few small holes in the Lycra front pocket. The main thing I would change if I make a new one is removing the shoulder strap pockets to make the sternum strap a little lower, and permanently attaching the hip belt pouch to the hip belt.

I built an ultralight trekking saw designed for long-distance mountain hikes where every gram counts. The handle is made from a carbon tube with custom 3D-printed end caps and a 240 mm reciprocating blade. Strong enough for real trail work, yet lighter than any commercial option. Perfect for cutting firewood, shelter building, and backcountry repairs without adding weight to your pack.

printables - Trekking Saw ~70g
thingiverse - Trekking Saw ~70g