Digest of r/myog

This weekend I decided to stop buying new dog boots when my dog's inevitably loose them in the snow. I'll tell you at 5:30am during a snow storm the last thing you want to do is look for a little boot in a foot of snow. I took a old boot apart, traced it out, added seam allowance, cut and sew fabric and the first boot was way to wide. I brought the sides in and it was perfect. That was the first two boots everything after that I was testing out velcro placement, reflective tapes and how to keep the boots on the dog's better or make the boots more visible. The red and black boots are my "finished" boots. I was getting short on velcro so nothing really matches but they work. Red boots are "waterproof" and thicker, black boots are more for dry and salty day's. The salt on the sidewalk is really the issue. I'm making 8 of each type per dog so I always have dry boots to put on and a few emergency backup boots in my jacket.

Hey everyone!

Just wanted to share my excitement—I’ve officially finished my first pack!

I used the LearnMYOG Porter Pony pattern (huge thanks to him for the amazing resources!). I learned a ton throughout the process. It took me about a week of working a couple hours here and there after work.

I imagined the build would be way more complicated, but having both the videos and written instructions made a huge difference.

Surprisingly, the part I struggled with the most was the Lycra mesh for the bottle pocket. I also wasted so much time because I accidentally attached the zipper to the front panel with the inside pocket upside down—and of course I didn’t realize until after I had already bound it. Fixing that ate up quite a bit of time. Because of that mistake I actually ran out of grosgrain, but honestly I’m glad I switched to elastic for the rest of the binding—it was a breeze to work with.

Overall, I’m extremely happy with how it came out.

Tech details: • Shell: Robic 420D • Lining: 2.2 oz HEX70 • Back panel: Robic 210D + 3D spacer mesh • Zippers: #8 YKK reversed (laptop + main compartment), #5 YKK (internal pocket)

Thanks for checking it out—excited to keep learning and making more!

Back again with a new ski shell design for the new season!

Design: green pepper Fairbanks anorak for inspiration and silhouette, and then customized according to my needs.

Material: 3L SUPLEX. Nice and tough, no stretch, dwr from the shop. 3L let's me skip the lining and have some coverage for the membrane even though this will be layered over wool most of its life.

Process: I started with a thrifted denim prototype to 1) practice and 2) have a tester for trying out ideas without sacrificing the $$ fabric. I explored adding an inner layer in the hood to cinch nicely around your helmet and avoid scrunching the outside. The cinch exits through the seam in the chest, purely for steeze . This subreddit has reinvigorated within me a new love for crafting and the delayed gratification is a new high.

P.s. any tips on pit zips greatly appreciated

My goal: to make functional footwear for my non-verbal, sensory-sensitive 2.5 year old. My needs: - genuinely warm on the coldest days - actually waterproof - the sole needs to be fairly grippy if possible - easy on and off design with an adjustable ankle strap - removable wool liner so it can air out - the liner to be usable on its own as a slipper (coat the bottom in non-slip material)

In the past I have attempted to fabricate leather and canvas mukluks for my son that were modeled after my favorite design *steger mukluks. I have 2 pairs myself, and wanted to make matching boots for him, but man, its really difficult to get all the layers of fabric in the sewing machine, aligned and true. I made about 10 attempts, ending up using 2 of those boots that passed as a "pair" even those they were functio ally different, with the details. They were difficult to put on. This time, aiming going to make it bigger, more comfortable, less about looks, more focused on function and fit.

Machine: Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ - zigzag and straight stitch blue machine.

Thread: PTFE Lifetime Thread black 4 Oz #107130 from sailrite.com

Needle: GB 140/22, 135 x 16 NW, DP x 16 part# 754592

Sole of boots was cut from a car floor mat I bought at Walmart called "genuine dickies heavy-duty cargo protection" made in China, not sure what's its made of but I do know that JB 2 part epoxy does not stick to it :) bar code # 0-77341-62026-6

Green shell material was cut from some size Medium Viking Journeyman brand waterproof pants I thrifted at Value Village for $20. The company is based in Vancouver, BC, canada but the tag says made in china RN# 87832, 80% Poly Vinyl Cloride + 20% Polyester - clean with mild soap and water, hang to dry without sunlight.

Wool liner for the boots was cut from a car seat cover that came with my camper van when I bought it. It is genuine wool pelt/skin whatever, but the leathery skin is quite thin and delicate. Im considering sewing or gluing on some material to the toe box, the bottom and the heel of the wool liner to add some abrasion protection and extend the life of the boot.

Elastics I used on the wool liners were purchased from Walmart, any elastic would do.

Plastic eyelets, velcro and strapping material was all purchased from the sailrite website, and modified to suit the little boot.

I traced my sons foot onto paper, added about 1/2" all around, rounding the toe and heel more. Then cut that out of the wool. The pattern I used for the main wrap, I changed, so instead of opening at the back and having a seamless front, I switched it because it made more sense comfort and ease of getting it on his foot. So, I will modify my templates for that. Theres only 3 pieces to sew, I stitched that all by hand because its so fluffy and messy and delicate. Doesn't need a machine.

Once that was done, I had a better idea how big the shell needed to be. I used a massive amount of tape to make a template over the wool liner, cutting and tracing and adjusting as I went until I felt like I have something that was pretty close. Then I just went for it.

I made the straps and lace loops on the fly using some bias edging wrap material I bought for a different project, purchased off the sailrite website. Its just cotton/poly trim.

I plan to order some seams sealer to seal up the two seams on the inside of the boot to make it genuinely waterproof. Ill also seal the stitches for the straps too.

Now, the questions is, can I accurately make a 2nd matching boot? Lol I often make changes on the fly and forget to document them, resulting in two slightly different sizes.

My first attempt at a frame bag for my custom gravel bike build! Pleased with how it turned out overall.

Designed in SolidWorks, using the exact reference geometry for the frame, converted to DXF drawing, imported into Silhouette Studio and cut the patterns out using a Cameo 5 with a fabric blade.

Materials are: 600D Canvas, waterproof zippers, and webbing from Rockywoods, all leftover from a Truck camper project I completed last year. Mesh inner pockets are reused from an old North Face bag. Also neoprene foam for the side panels and downtube.

Bag has a main zipper pocket for large items on the right, map/phone pocket on the left. Interior mesh pockets and key lanyard line the inside of the large compartment. Bladder port up front near the head tube, daisy chain webbing on the downtube for Velco OneWrap, elastic cord up top. Wanted to leave room for a single bottle cage, which i often prefer over the water bladder. The little extra bit above the water bottle perfectly holds a backup inner tube!

Happy to answer questions - this sub and several older posts were excellent inspiration!

Album with more build pics: https://imgur.com/a/qC2MYA0

Cheers!

Honestly hate tomatoes but I’m stoked on the hoodie.

[update: tutorial posted here]

This sub has been very helpful and inspirational for my own projects, so I figured I would share my wallet I made with some leftover 1000D cordura.

It's designed to hold a rite in the rain notebook. I wanted something more thought out and waterproof bc my last field-notes-turned-makeshift-wallet started to disintegrate after I jumped into 2 too many pools.

The goal was something as small and thin as possible (so I basically just folded the fabric over, stitched right up to the size of the notebook, then trimmed to fit). I burned the edges, so hopefully it doesn't fray too much...

I was nervous using a click style pen (I used a cap style pen with the last notebook) but the recessed pen holder makes it difficult to click in my pocket and even if it does, there's clearance at the bottom to not draw in my pocket.

The front cover pocket can stash cash or receipts I hardly ever carry. The back pockets hold a couple CCs each and provide a pretty flat surface to write on (last notebook wallet didn't so my writing was lumpy).

Rather than making the back pocket fully out of fabric, the easiest (and thinnest) thing to do was make it similar to the front but make a stitch through the notebook back cover. This was with a very long stitch length, so I can easily pick it out when I go to replace with a new notebook.

My sewing/cutting skills could still be better, but I hope this gives you some ideas if you're wanting to make something similar. Honestly, I'm not sure what I would do differently if I made another but I'm open to suggestions!

My brother wanted a bike pack to match the colors of his bike. Tool roll pocket on the bottom and zipper opening for the bladder. Did removable straps so he could possibly try other styles out if he wanted. I’m a little off symmetry with the pockets but I’m just gonna say it was on purpose lol.

Made these from this pattern https://bikepacking.com/gear/make-your-own-ultralight-pogies/. I adapted the shape slightly to be a better fit for drop bars (image 1). This adaptation required sewing a few inches on the long seam before folding down the edge for the cord channel (images 2 and 3) as I removed the mirror edge from the pattern. Otherwise I followed the pattern. Final result (image 4). I am very pleased with them and the fit. I will use them for rainy/wet conditions and cooler temps.

Next, I adapted this pattern further (image 5) for a fully winter pair (for well below freezing). I made it even bigger, both because I wanted a bit more flare on the wrist from V1, and to fit in a liner. I made the outer the exact same way as V1. Then I cut out an insulation layer and a fleece layer. For the inner layers, the pattern was 3/4inch smaller all around, and I cut off the cord channel part on the bottom and long edges. Then I sewed a seam on the bottom and long edges (image 6). Next, I sewed the two halves together, fleece layers facing in. These fit nicely into the outer layer (last 4 images).

I am a very novice sewer and spent a lot of time scouring the internet for patterns and ideas, so I hope this helps someone else! I also took inspiration from this blog post https://www.whatwouldemilydo.com/mblogging/2021/roadiepogies.

I have yet to try these on outside! Depending on how it goes, I may end up adding Velcro or a snap to attach the inner layer, but so far they stay together fine. I also may add a tab on the inside to fit over the end of my brakes so the pogies stay up.

Just wanted to let you know.

Hey,

It's my 4th iteration of a pack that has enough features to be nice to hike with while still being usable daily.

meadowphysics makes a similar pack except the side pockets a re a bit too tight and the straps are quite uncomfortable and lack some pockets imo.

So I decided to make a pack that has vest style straps and more pockets. Quite happy with how it turned out.

Straps pockets are big enough for a big phone or a 500ml flask. I added smaller pockets on the bottom of the straps to store small items like a flashlight, headphones or a few bars even.

Let me know what you think of it. :)

Hey everyone,

A few months back I posted a rough prototype idea here for a small, waterproof gear shelter that could sit in a tent vestibule or hang outside from a ridgeline. At the time it was literally scraps of fabric, bad stitching, and a lot of second-guessing.

I honestly wasn’t sure if I should keep going. But this community, the feedback, the questions, the curiosity, gave me the push to keep refining it instead of shelving it like another “maybe one day” project.

Fast-forward to now: I just received photos of the first factory-built sample. Same concept, refined construction. Still ultralight (168 g), fully seam-sealed, and somehow packs smaller than a can of Coke.

This post is partly to show the progress from my first hand-stitched silpoly mess through to an actual production sample, but mostly to say thank you. The encouragement here turned a DIY hack into something that might actually become a real product.

I’ll keep sharing updates as testing continues, and if all goes well, hope to make a small first run.

Appreciate every bit of support that made me keep going, you’ve genuinely changed the course of this project.

Matt (StormStash)

Okay so I originally got the idea from this post on doing this w Star Wars toys: https://www.reddit.com/r/ArticulatedPlastic/s/Kxjamc6ZVj and wasn’t sure if this was going to work since I had never seen anyone share abt it here for dying plastic hardware like buckles etc., but it totally does.

I originally tried it because I wanted my hardware to match my fabric color. The color payoff can be super vibrant depending on how much dye you use, and you can even tint (or turn completely opaque) transparent plastic. I got this really soft pink tint on these clear buckles and it took a few tries but I turned plain white buckles into the perfect neutral beige that perfectly matches my fabric.

Rit color recipes don’t always translate well for this kind of application. The dyes behave differently with hard plastics, so you’ll probably have to rely on a mix of color theory and trial-and-error to get what you want.

For example: a light beige recipe called for sandstone and chocolate brown, but that gave me a weird pinkish brown. I ended up finding the right color with about 1 gallon of water, 1 teaspoon of sandstone,a few drops of of yellow, and 1/8 teaspoon of cool gray, boiled for about 4½ minutes.

I kept the buckle pieces separate while dyeing (for even coverage), and used a wire attached to a wooden dowel to keep them fully submerged but not touching the bottom of the pot. Also: gently move them around or tap the pot occasionally so bubbles don’t stick to the surface; those little air pockets can block the dye and leave lighter spots.

I guess Rit Dyemore works because it’s formulated for synthetics, nylon, polyester, and similar plastics, but it only takes if the water’s boiling for the duration of the dye process. I kept mine just below a rolling boil, checking the pieces every minute or so until the color looked right.

The buckles don’t feel any different after the dye process, I’m not an expert but I tested some out with some straps and it doesn’t seem to have lost any strength compared to non-dyed/boiled ones.

If you’re into color coordination or custom builds, i would love to see ppl do some crazy stuff with this!

I'm done with getting ripped off paying extra for a carry on bag. It should fit precisely in the dimensions for a free personal item on Frontier/Spirit airlines: 14" x 18" x 8". It's essentially a giant packing cube I kept it simple and all open on the inside except for a small external pocket to maximize space. A personal item bag is actually a lot of room when you go all the way to the size limit. I haven't been through the airport since making it, but it should fit like a glove in the sizer if it's not over packed.

I added removable straps on the back, as well as a 5mm stiffener panel out of EVA foam on the front and back. The X-pac fabric is stiff enough on the sides that it gives the bag a decent amount of structure. I was playing around with laser cutting a pattern into the back stiffener to maybe help with ventilation. And I found some glow in the dark zipper pulls!

During lockdown I spent a lot of time at home and wanted something to do. I do rock climbing and had a shortage of climbing pants that I like. It's not easy as there are lots of criteria good climbing pants need to meet. They need to be durable, allow full range of movement, be comfortable and obvious they also need to look good. I had a bunch of denim that I bought for a jeans project years ago but never really got started so I decided to use it to try and make climbing jeans. The fabric is pretty heavy no-stretch denim.

I had some climbing pants that I wasn't entirely happy on but I used them as a base for the patterns and made made modifications as necessary. I didn't want take them apart so I just laid them flat and traced the patterns the best I could. The pants were made of stretchy fabric and when testing out I soon realized that the stretch made a world of difference and I needed to make the pattern quite a bit different and looser to allow for movement with no stretch denim. I tweaked the patterns and tried on the jeans on a lot during making them. It would have been best to make test version out of different fabric but I didn't have patience for that. (probably would have been less work) For the jeans details I used a pair of well fitting medium loose jeans I had as a guide.

To allow movement the jeans have a fairly high rise well fitting waist and below that a quite loose fit. The crotch is gusseted which helps with high steps and splits. The knees have knee tucks (I think that's what they are called) in the front pieces to leave a bit extra material at the front of the knees to allow bending. The bottoms of the pant legs have draw strings to keep them out of way. As a nod to towards climbing I fashioned the decorative stitching in back pockets after two common climbing knots: a figure eight and an alpine butterfly.

I'm pretty happy with the result. I've made a few pairs of pants before but never before full blown jeans. It was an interesting task. I was a bit sceptic on how my sewing machine will handle it as there are certain spots where there is 16 layers of denim but to my surprise the machine was able to handle it. the stitching is all right but not allways quite as neat as I'd like. Climbingvise the pants work all right. They are comfortable and allow fairly free movement but can't quite compare with ones made of stretchy fabric. Still very usable pants that have since seen quite a lot of climbing.

Cannibalized 7 Gregory packs. Came away with some carbon fiber bars, a pack frame off a 24L, and a LOT of side release buckles.

Shout-out to small local outdoor retailers.

i had a hiking trip planned to italy and i was struggling to find good backpacks for a 4-day trip. i even ordered a pack from palante but was sad that it wasn’t quite like i wanted.

so… i of course wanted perfection which meant i had to start planning me my own backpack! i needed something that works for me. i like to run on my hikes, because i just wanna go for it. so the pack had to work for that matter. also i love to go fast on my hikes because i just love the feeling of doing 40-50 km a day hikes and being exhausted afterwards. i would never go on a vacation just to lay on a beach :-Dd and then i needed some fastpacking stuff!!

i began with the base. i bought patterns from pa’lante and copied them on paper, then i tried adjusting them to fit my wishes. my girlfriend helped me a lot here, because she studies clothing fashion and knows things like this that i have no idea of… but together we changed the style of the straps and side pockets and also because i think the inside of the backpack needed something extra, we added a few internal patterns too!

i live in finland so i ordered some fabrics from a local finnish outdoor store. first i sampled, then i went big and nuts! i ordered way more than i needed but that just means more projects in the future! ;-)

i wanted the fabric to be fully waterproof so the main fabric is uhmwpe + tpu laminate, and for parts that didn’t need to be waterproof (like strap and side pockets) i chose polartec neoshell. the bottom pocket is cordura stretch as well as the big front pocket because i wanted it to survive when i’m throwing my pack always against rocks and probably fall on it some day!

there is also a removable back panel, because i don’t need it all the time. inside, there’s an inner pocket for keys and coins, and a magnetic snapping closure. the pack came out to be about 35 liters :-)

this is my first myog and i’m actually so excited and proud if it, and my goodness how much i learned!! :—))))

it worked so well on my trip to italy and i just love to share it here! hope u like my pics too!

thanks for reading, i’m definitely gonna make so much new stuff in the future, so imma post them here too!!

This is my first project outside of canvas tote bags for family and friends. I was gifted a retired Ocean Rodeo kitesurfing kite, made primarily from Aluula (used for most of bag) and Dyneema (blue at ends of zipper).

I'm planning to add some Cordura patches around the outside to increase durability near the accessory bolts on my frame, but otherwise it's been a very solid bag and the material was relatively easy to work with!

So of course I overengineered one with EPX200, Cordura 1000D, and a #10 Waterproof zipper. Can share the digital pattern if people are interested. Fits a 14in M3 Macbook Pro